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Thread: I know my parts not my resistors, help?

  1. #1

    Default I know my parts not my resistors, help?

    Hey guys instead of me guessing what I need could someone just tell me? I don't understand what is needed to make three different LEDs work. I wanna get it right the first time.

    I'm using a Prizm board,
    http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Pr...-V35-P990.aspx
    A single 3.7V battery
    http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Ca...ack-P1025.aspx
    A RBG LED
    http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Re...ova-P1016.aspx
    And a pre-wired LED Momentary switch
    http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MW...lack-P912.aspx
    The rest of my part list is here if it helps:
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...bers-part-list
    Last edited by im2fst4u; 07-09-2015 at 07:18 PM.

  2. #2
    Sith Warrior darth_chasm's Avatar
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    Take a look over this.

    All the specs/numbers you need are on the LED's product page. The link to the switch is incorrect, but I believe the pre-wired switches already have the resistor wired in.

  3. #3

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    i needed to know the same thing but they just gave me this ohm and volts calculator.

  4. #4

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    Darth_Chasm, you're correct: the MWS switches have a DynaOhm resistor pre-wired onto them.

    im2fst4u, please follow the Ohm's Law guide that Darth_Chasm linked, and try to understand what's involved. It's pretty easy, and once YOU learn it, you'll never forget it.

  5. #5

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    I heard DynaOhm! If wiring them yourself note: the "IN" post needs to connect to the power supply, and the "OUT" post needs to connect to the LED+ post.

  6. #6

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    Just to confirm, the "IN" post is the side that's labeled "+" on the DynaOhm and the "OUT" post is the side that's labeled "-" is that correct?

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by ColdVizjerei View Post
    Just to confirm, the "IN" post is the side that's labeled "+" on the DynaOhm and the "OUT" post is the side that's labeled "-" is that correct?
    Correct:

    IN is + (connected to the power source)

    OUT is - (connected to the switch's LED+ post)

  8. #8

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    There I fixed it. The link that is

    So would each LED need it's own resistor? Because each color LED has to wired separately to work for color control with the prizm board right?

    Yeah Obi I feel your pain. I'd at least like a good example of a multi-LED, with lit momentary switch setup. As in what resistors are used. Then I will understand how to use the calculator...
    Last edited by im2fst4u; 07-09-2015 at 07:23 PM.

  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by im2fst4u View Post
    There I fixed it. The link that is

    So would each LED need it's own resistor? Because each color LED has to wired separately to work for color control with the prizm board right?

    Yeah Obi I feel your pain. I'd at least like a good example of a multi-LED, with lit momentary switch setup. As in what resistors are used. Then I will understand how to use the calculator...
    Right. Each of your dice get their own resistor on the negative lead going from the LED the driver pads. Your LED in your lit momentary switch will connect to one of the designated accent LED pads.

  10. #10

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    Yes, each LED would have it's own resistor.

    Seriously, read FJK's tutorial since it's very straightforward and he includes an example. If you want another example of doing the math:
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...standing-Check

    Hopefully that helps
    Last edited by ColdVizjerei; 07-09-2015 at 08:57 PM. Reason: spelling

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