Tonfa Revival

[TheSilverDark]

That's quite a pleasing build!

[Marquis]

Tonfa_Wiring_and_Routing.jpg So here's my wiring diagram and layout strategy. After copying all the separate wiring schematics from the CF manual into a single picture, I took a second pass to streamline the layout and help see where the wire would actually run and how many splices I would need.

I'm using 2x2, 2x3 and 1x1 crimp connectors in order to be able to disconnect the switches, charging port, CREE, and Data Port. I might use them on the speaker, but it isn't that big a deal to leave the speaker connected and it saves a lot of space - the connectors are bulky. The 1x1 connectors will fit through the hole into the tonfa grip.

More Pictures to come after I get the wiring all done. I'll have all the components on the bench. Then I'll be ready to start the Patina process.

[Marquis]

Wiring complete. I urge everyone to follow the troubleshooting guide in the Wiring and LED section - specifically: START SIMPLE. Also really check your switch connections before you solder. My problem was that I wired my on/off through the LED connection and vice versa for the vandal with the ring switch.

So here's a picture, all the parts, all the wires, all disconnected. It lights, it hums, it's ready for the next phase: Patina.
IMG_0276.jpg

I've had some experience wiring with 20-24 gauge wires. I wired 4 panels of 6 Neutrik Jacks (combo XLR and RTS, 6 wires per jack) through two walls. Nice because you can use them for XLR, Instruments or headphones. I've also wired up an 8 room recording studio/office with Cat 5. The wires and wall plates were in place, but they were never connected on either end. I cut a bunch of short cat 5 cables to connect a simple patch bay in the electrical room and hooked up all the jacks. Still I managed to screw up that one switch connection that messed everything up.

[hapki]

That's awesome. I like the ribbed choke. I'd never thought of that. It looks great.

[Marquis]

IMG_0280.jpg

So my first and second attempts at using Alukot to apply a patina to the aluminum parts. My original plan was to mask everything, put rubber stoppers in the end to protect the insides and cut away the masking where I wanted the dark to go. Didn't work out so well. I ended up scratching the aluminum with the x-acto knife and didn't get a really clean edge. But in the process I discovered it was really easy to wipe off the Chemical coloration while everything was wet.

It is also fairly easy to do when it is dry, so be careful.

Attempt 2. Dip the grooved piece into Alukot 65 (2 cups alukot, 4 cups water) and wait 75 seconds. BTW, at 40 seconds it still looks awesome. Pull it out, dunk it in the water to stop the catalyst, wipe off the raised parts (mostly) and leave some nice dark grooves and a few smudges. I call those "wear."

On to the ribbed grooved choke. You same basic procedure. The result is a dark, flat brown. It might pickup a little shine when I seal it. But before that happens both pieces, along with the rest of the aluminum parts, are going for a dip in the Alukot 50 for a nice coppery bronze finish. That's my plan for tomorrow. Then sealing it up on the weekend when it is supposed to be an ideal 70 degrees. More pics then.

[Marquis]

2nd Dip complete. Here's all the external parts. I'll probably have to do some light finger buffing to get the seams to match up.

IMG_0283.jpg

Should anyone else choose to use this method, I'd go with a single chemical, lighter than your dark color. Dip it for 50% longer than the recommend time, then wipe off what you want to be light colored, then dip it again for the recommend time period.

[Marquis]

4 coats of sprayIMG_0286.jpgIMG_0287.jpg lacquer, hanging to dry in my kitchen.

[hapki]

Very cool. I like that color/texture.