Color change without sound board wiring ( + momentary to latching converter)

[nickpro]

Alright, So I am still learning about wiring and stuff but I made a diagram of my circuit. I want to use 2 SPDT slide switches (on-off-on) to change the colors of the saber.
I have an RGB LED and basically, when I switch the SPDT, it will change the color of the saber (red on 1 and off on 2 makes red, red on 1 and blue on 2 makes purple).

I am using:
2 trustfire 3.7V batteries (so 7.4 in total),
momentary to latching converter,
momentary switch,
2 SPDT slide switches (on-off-on),
an accent LED for the crystal (3.5V 10mA).

Screen Shot 2015-06-09 at 8.38.13 PM.jpg

So basically what I want to know is:

1. Is this doable? Is this correct?
2. How do I calculate the resistance of the accent LED? Since the current going to it depends on which LED is chosen right? (The resistor for red will be higher than the resistor for blue, and what if I choose purple? (red and blue)
3. I got this LED from a Ultrasabers hilt so I have no idea what the stats are (to measure the resistors). My voltage is 7.4V but what is the forward voltage and the forward current?
4. If I pick my resistor for blue to work as a normal blue lightsaber would, and same for red, would having them both on at the same time at that configuration not overheat the LED?

I got the idea from this guy in case that helps
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...rystal-Chamber

If you see any other problems with this, please let me know

[Thalan the Exiled]

The idea does work as I have both done and seen similar. As for the led and the FV for each die I can't help. But I know using a rebel RGB I can run 2 die together and have no issues with heat. I have even run all three but it kills thd battery quite quickly.

[nickpro]

Thanks a lot that helps!

Can anyone help me with the rest of my questions?

[Don Se Wion]

To calculate the resistor for the main LED you need to know what kind of LED you have.
Normally a LED can be recognized by its shape or by markings on the star PCB.
Best idea would be to post a clear picture of your LED here, someone will recognize it for sure.

Apart from this, the position of you blue accent LED is wrong, it will blow right away because too much current is passing thorugh that black wire.
Just move it in parallel to all the other LEDs, like the one in the switch that you placed correctly.

[nickpro]

Thanks for the answer!

Why is the position of the LED wrong? Can I not put it in series? If I put a strong enough resistor on it, wouldn't it not blow?

And here is a picture of the LED

IMG_7933.jpg

[Jay-gon Jinn]

That appears to be a DealExtreme RGB led: http://www.dx.com/p/3w-led-emitter-o...0#.VXpkr0ZQA14

specs:
- Seperate input wires for Red, Green and Blue allowing customization of colors
- Driving voltage and current per channel:

Red: 2.5V ~ 3.0V, 350mA
Green: 3.2V ~ 3.8V, 350mA
Blue: 3.2V ~ 3.8V, 350mA

- Star size: 20 x 20 x 1.6mm

- Note: each color channel is able to take a maximum of 350mA of current, thus a 1050mA combined current input and the 3W rating

[Don Se Wion]

Thanks for the answer!

Why is the position of the LED wrong? Can I not put it in series? If I put a strong enough resistor on it, wouldn't it not blow?

And here is a picture of the LED

IMG_7933.jpg

It's not a matter about one can or cannot place an LED on the battery negative.
It can be done for sure, but has a big drawback on the whole circuit.

If you choose a resistor to limit the current on that black wire to something around 15-20 mA, you will apply the same effect on the whole circuit, including the blade LEDs which will not turn up.

That's the reason why in a setup like the one you are planning all the LEDs, either blade or accent, must be wired in parallel to be able feeding them with their required current.

[nickpro]

Thank you SOOO much Jay-Gon Jinn! That helps so much!

Thanks for the tips Don, is this any better?
Screen Shot 2015-06-12 at 10.26.32 AM.jpg

[Don Se Wion]

Yep, that's the way I would wire it.

[nickpro]

Hey guys, one last question!

I was just wiring my saber and apparently I had the + and - reversed on the LED. In my tests, the resistor was plugged in on the RGB side (just like in the drawing). But it turned out the RGB (RGB connections of the LED) side was suppose to be negative (-). So when I tested it the resistor was way too hot. Which side should the resistor be on? I am assuming the positive side, just like the rest of the LEDs but then that doesnt make sense since RGB would have one resistor.

Second question... According to http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz my red and blue LED both need the same resistor... But when I do that, the red is more significant so I can't do purple. Should I use a more powerful resistor for red?