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Thread: I'm baaaaack! Somewhat ambitious saber. Help?

  1. #1

    Default I'm baaaaack! Somewhat ambitious saber. Help?

    Hello sabersmiths!

    Last year I made my first saber, which was a hardware saber. Recently I took it apart to discover that the LED wires got completely disconnected...so I entertained the idea of making a completely new saber. I tried pushing it aside but that didn't work. So I'm back on the forums getting ready to burn a couple hundred dollars

    So I discovered I had a CNC machine at my school, and a bunch of my friends on the Robotics team heard about my project and offered to CNC the part, provided I supply the stock. ("Good practice" they say). So I'm gonna make some custom parts.

    Here's a list of my intentions...
    1) Mill custom body
    2) Mill custom shroud (s) with acid etching
    3) Install a custom crystal chamber using accent LEDs to illuminate said crystal
    4) Use a PRIZM soundboard and color mix with RB/R/G
    5) Have a free float style chassis that would be pretty to look at (Similar to Arklight Arsenals G-Core system)

    At the moment this is merely an idea I'm entertaining but I would really like more information on how I should go about doing this mostly so I can mentally prepare myself for the design process and amount of money I'll have to invest.

    My main questions...
    1) Better ideas to illuminate the crystal chamber? (SORTED...SORTA)
    2) Is possible to color mix the crystal chamber with PRIZM? If not any ideas on how to cheat it? (SORTED...SORTA)

    3 (A follow up) So I read plecterlabs guide on the PRIZM and I got thoroughly confused...I understand that I can make a Crystal chamber, but it was not made clear (or at least not to me) if I have to wire the accent LED to the accent LED pads or to the main LED pads...

    That's really it...any ideas or help on how I should do this would be appreciated.

    I am researching all of these as I write and I'll cross stuff off the list as I go.

    Thanks for your help guys
    Last edited by TheSilverDark; 05-30-2015 at 06:00 PM.
    "Peace is a lie. Perhaps the greatest of them all. Peace, or a lack of change equals Death. If the waters of a pool cease to move, and become stagnant, the waters poison themselves, and kill all who drink from it. Chaos, on the other hand, brings great change. Should the pool be over taken by a river, life springs anew.
    -Lord Malyce, Exile of Sith, First Warrior of Sands

  2. #2

    Default

    1) A nice RGB LED will easily illuminate the crystal chamber at around 5mA-10mA as the manual suggests.
    2) You can wire the RGB common cathode to mimic the main blade, it's the diagram that's in the manual.
    3)I'd say to follow the picture and wire the crystal chamber LED off the pads from the main LED.

    Don't take anything I've said too seriously; I've never used the board and only found that stuff in the manual. As an added note, making a G-Core style piece will be a pain in the rear end. Make sure you measure out EVERYTHING multiple times over to make sure you have room.
    Last edited by Forgetful Jedi Knight; 05-31-2015 at 09:54 AM. Reason: Language
    Honey, you've been looking for love in Alderaan places!

  3. #3

    Default

    Thanks for the input. The manual thoroughly confused me but I'll just look at the pretty pictures.

    And yeah, I'm well aware. Thankfully I have all summer to design it.
    "Peace is a lie. Perhaps the greatest of them all. Peace, or a lack of change equals Death. If the waters of a pool cease to move, and become stagnant, the waters poison themselves, and kill all who drink from it. Chaos, on the other hand, brings great change. Should the pool be over taken by a river, life springs anew.
    -Lord Malyce, Exile of Sith, First Warrior of Sands

  4. #4

    Default

    I've heard, and intend to do it once I get a lathe, that working MHS V2 parts as the actual core work well. It means that you have very little internal space and might have to rethink your switches/recharge port, but a properly worked down V2 blank can fit right under the V1 parts. If you choose to go that route, take some extremely precise measurements and check them over and over again. With a piece like that, there's no room for error. Anyways good luck on the build.
    Honey, you've been looking for love in Alderaan places!

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