Back to square one

[Nick43107]

Yea I know I'm sorry, this post was only for having trouble getting the HILt together to be sure is sturdy

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Threads merged - FJK

[Nick43107]

So I got to looking at the manual and this is what I found image.jpg

[Nick43107]

It's says for "PROPER" color mixing and it even has the same colors I have in the manual RED GREEN BLUE

[Quixotic Jedi]

It's says for "PROPER" color mixing and it even has the same colors I have in the manual RED GREEN BLUE

Okay, I'm new to this thread and a little confused by your issue. I have a question I don't think has been asked yet so here it goes. How did you wire your LED?

You say that you have it wired as in the manual page you posted, but the way that shows is you have the blue led on channel one, the red led on channel two and the green on channel three, which would make the setup blue, red, green and not red, green, blue as you state. It also shows a color Color Extender board, do you have one of those wired into your setup?

I think that in order to help you figure out why your FoC is lighter than your primary blade color we'd have to know how you have your LEDs wired, ie which color is on which channel, and what power levels you have set in your config.txt file, or the levels set in whatever color profile you currently have set for whatever font you're working on. In addtion to that we'd need to know how your focmix is set up, but first things first.

Now, if you can't remember how you wired your LED there's a couple simple tests you can do if you have the RICE program. Or if not it means a lot of swapping your sd card in and out. But that's possibly best left for later.

[Nick43107]

I don't have the color extender, I have the RED LED wired to the main power source for the LED on the sound board, I have the BLUE AND GREEN on the second and third channel that's wired to the LED, I turn the saber on and the green and blue LEDS are more dimmer then the RED LED

[Nick43107]

I do not have my saber wired up like it shows in the manual for the color extender

[Quixotic Jedi]

Ok, now this is starting to make sense. Without the Color Xtender board you won't get true color mixing. You vary your second and third channels using different valued resistors so once you have those calculated for the power levels you want and wired up that's all the power you're gonna get to those two dies. It's a very clunky way to color mix in my opinion. I would suggest you get yourself a CEX and wire it up like in the manual. Then you'll have a much easier time mixing your blade and FoC colors.

I'm not saying it can't be done without the CEX, but it's way simplier with a CEX, and much better in my opinion.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Ok, now this is starting to make sense. Without the Color Xtender board you won't get true color mixing. You vary your second and third channels using different valued resistors so once you have those calculated for the power levels you want and wired up that's all the power you're gonna get to those two dies. It's a very clunky way to color mix in my opinion. I would suggest you get yourself a CEX and wire it up like in the manual. Then you'll have a much easier time mixing your blade and FoC colors.

I'm not saying it can't be done without the CEX, but it's way simplier with a CEX, and much better in my opinion.

While having a CEX is better, if he has the right resistors on the various LED dice, he should be able to do a decent job color mixing. The key issues are does he have the right resistors on each die AND does he have the configurations set properly.

[Quixotic Jedi]

While having a CEX is better, if he has the right resistors on the various LED dice, he should be able to do a decent job color mixing. The key issues are does he have the right resistors on each die AND does he have the configurations set properly.

Those are the big questions now aren't they.