Noob's best options for a yellow blade

[ArcGunner]

Hey, long time reader first time posting.

I have been doing my research on the best options for attaining a BRIGHT yellow blade for my first custom lightsaber.

I have a few options before me, but the best option I see is using a multi-led and mixing colors.

My saber is using a resistor, (no buck-puck) and no soundboard.

Most led color mixing sabers I have seen use a board, hence my asking for help.

This saber will be stage combat only, with no sounds. Does it require a board to mix LED colors?

As I said, i am a noob, and this is probably a ****e question, but any help, or directions to threads explaining this better would be GREAT!

[Bark]

I have no first-hand experience, but a quick Google says that RED and GREEN mixed produces YELLOW. If true, I would think get a R-G-B tri-color LED, like the Red/Green/Royal Blue Cree XP-E2 CopperNova, and wire the Red and Green dies but not the Royal Blue one.

No muss and no fuss, but again I don't know first-hand either the apparent color of the mix or its brightness. On the other hand, if it doesn't work and you have to explore other options, the tri-color LEDs may still prove useful. It wouldn't be a complete waste.

[Yoshi-Taka]

I've done yellow a few times via colour mixing. Red and Green dice are the way to do it, it's just a matter of using the right resistors to accomplish the right shade of yellow. I personally resistor the Green more heavily as I've found it drowns out the yellow. If you use a [normally] optimal resistor on the Red and a heavier resistor for the Green (let's say, a 4.7ohm 5w resistor), you'll get a nice shade of yellow with a slight green tinge at the bottom of the blade. This is assuming you wire the dice in parallel, of course.

And yes, you can do this with a buckpuck or a soundboard, or neither. You don't have to use a board or a buckpuck... although higher-end soundboard do make life a little easier if you know how to wire up a colour mixer. But for your first one, just the plain old resistor or buckpuck route will work just fine for you.

[ArcGunner]

Since you have experience getting different shades of yellow through color mixing and use of resistors, can you tell me what setup would be optimal to achieve a Temple Guard yellow?

http://41.media.tumblr.com/ef126a490...o1lqo3_500.png

[Yoshi-Taka]

That I cannot tell you, as I've only done a single shade of yellow before. I can tell you, however, that my resistors were as such.

For the Red die - 2.2ohm, 2w
For the Green die - 4.7ohm, 5w

As I said above, you'll have to play around with resistors to figure out what shade you like the most. But those are what I used for yellow, when using a Tri-Rebel RGB. The Red was running at 700mA, the Green was running at 1000mA. I hope that helps, because that's all the information I have for you.

[Star Bird]

The Lime rebel is very bright(slightly green) but you could try mixing it with a PC amber.. But I think the Amber Cree Xpe-2 from the store would be pretty close to your picture

[Cire Yeldarb]

I would personally resistor the Red as normal, and then put a potentiometer on the Green (wired up basically as a variable resistor), such that you can adjust the amount of green you are resisting until you find your optimum shade of Yellow.

[Ty_Bomber]

Honestly, the yellow always shows too much green for my tastes.

I have personally been very happy with WARM white LEDs. It gives a very natural yellow color, more golden yellow without having that sickly green tinge to it. If you're running a stunt setup its worth a look.

[ArcGunner]

@Cire Yeldarb

Should I get a potentiometer from radioshack (or the like) or are they available in TCSS?

[Silver Serpent]

TCSS doesn't carry pots at this time, and RS is going out of business. Your best bet is one of the various online electronics parts suppliers. (I'll leave finding one up to your Google-fu)