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Thread: >n00by catchy title goes here<

  1. #11

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    Alright, so here's a wiring diagram I made. Could someone please check my work to make sure everything's fine and nothing's going to explode or give me cancer or come alive and eat my dog? While your at it, look for any shortcuts or more space conserving ways to complete what I'm trying to accomplish here.

    http://i.imgur.com/cewE8B5.jpg

    Thanks in advance, you guys are awesome.
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    Last edited by Darth Wumbo; 05-10-2015 at 07:16 PM.

  2. #12

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    You may find that it will be better to put a resistor on each die of the main LED (after the splitoff). Also I don't see a resistor at all for the FoC die.
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  3. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by Forgetful Jedi Knight View Post
    You may find that it will be better to put a resistor on each die of the main LED (after the splitoff).
    You mean using two resistors when I would've had one? Would it be too dangerous if I only used one resistor?

    Quote Originally Posted by Forgetful Jedi Knight View Post
    Also I don't see a resistor at all for the FoC die.
    Like this?
    http://i.imgur.com/02TFOOT.jpg
    I'm also not 100% sure if the resistors to my main LED are the right kind. I used http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz to calculate the resistor value for the LED on the switch and behind the Crystal Chamber, but I couldn't find the voltage and current of the Tri-rebel on the store page. (it's probably there, I just don't know how to read it)

  4. #14

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    The specs for the individual dice on the Tri-Rebel are here: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Lu...Star-P523.aspx

    It's better to use two resistors. If you only use one where you've got it on the diagram, you run the risk of having one LED overdraw current, blow, and then the other one will blow shortly afterwards. If you use a resistor on each LED die, this won't happen.

    Don't forget to bridge the pads on the PEX, since you're not putting the resistor on board for FoC.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  5. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by Silver Serpent View Post
    The specs for the individual dice on the Tri-Rebel are here: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Lu...Star-P523.aspx
    Thank you

    Quote Originally Posted by Silver Serpent View Post
    It's better to use two resistors. If you only use one where you've got it on the diagram, you run the risk of having one LED overdraw current, blow, and then the other one will blow shortly afterwards. If you use a resistor on each LED die, this won't happen.
    Yes, but how common is this? Rob only uses one in his video for TCSS on YouTube https://youtu.be/ZldjWimMAvE?t=6m8s

    Quote Originally Posted by Silver Serpent View Post
    Don't forget to bridge the pads on the PEX, since you're not putting the resistor on board for FoC.
    Oh, so there's no wiring within the power extender between the two pads? Your right, it makes way more sense to put the resistor on the PEx to save space.

    http://i.imgur.com/fhtR4V4.jpg

  6. #16

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    Madcow's been doing this for a long time. His soldering skills are top-notch, and I don't think he'll be terribly worried if the occasional Tri-star LED is unbalanced and burns out. He's got spares in his shop. For the rest of us, we'd rather not risk burning a LED and having to wait for another to ship. If they're both the same color and bin, it's unlikely to cause an issue. But resistors cost less than $1 and will save a $20+ part from burning.

    You can put the resistor on the PEX itself if you have a SMD resistor. Regular resistors are unlikely to fit. Just bridge the pads in that case.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  7. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by Silver Serpent View Post
    Madcow's been doing this for a long time. His soldering skills are top-notch, and I don't think he'll be terribly worried if the occasional Tri-star LED is unbalanced and burns out. He's got spares in his shop. For the rest of us, we'd rather not risk burning a LED and having to wait for another to ship. If they're both the same color and bin, it's unlikely to cause an issue. But resistors cost less than $1 and will save a $20+ part from burning.
    Alright, I'm just trying to save space. I know resistors are tiny, but every bit counts. If it's unlikely to cause an issue, the LED on the switch and the LED behind the crystal chamber both take the same resistor. Would it be possible to just use one resistor for those two instead? I have a feeling I already know the answer...

    Quote Originally Posted by Silver Serpent View Post
    You can put the resistor on the PEX itself if you have a SMD resistor. Regular resistors are unlikely to fit. Just bridge the pads in that case.
    Is this the SMD resistor I'm looking for? http://www.newark.com/te-connectivit...d=800000005307

    It looks so tiny, I'd probably be better off just bridging and not worrying about it anyway.


  8. #18

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    Hey, so for my first saber I had a design kinda similar to yours with the same long choke:

    saber_internal_with_speaker.jpg

    Re: battery in choke, it is possible, but the fit will be tight. The resistor for the main LED is pretty big (at least the one I got was), and I actually broke the wires going to it the first time I tried to jam the blade holder on, had to re-solder everything. I ended up having to push the battery down into the threaded section a bit to make room for the resistor. I thought I would need to put some padding in there to keep the battery from bouncing around, but with the two LED wires in there it just barely fits.

    As for the choke making it easy to spin, I thought it would too, but after using it for several weeks it seems about the same. I think if you just had a straight section instead of a choke you will find it handles just fine, plus you'll get some more room to put things in there.

    How are you going to get the speaker & chamber LED wires past the motorized section? If they won't thread through there somehow, seems like that might be a showstopper for you.

    I know what it's like to be totally excited about your design, but it looks like it's going to be really hard to make it work. I was so excited for my saber that I found it impossible to heed the advice of the vets on this board, and luckily my saber works, but it could easily have gone the other way, plus I can never open it up again without a lot of work (so no changing the sound font for me). If you can get excited about a slightly longer saber with more room, that'd be my advice, because the space really disappears fast! Also I really wish I had done an internal chassis in mine, so definitely check that out.

  9. #19

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    I would also dedicate one resistor per LED die. It's not worth risking the burnout, IMO.

  10. #20

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    Quote Originally Posted by Darth Wumbo View Post
    Is this the SMD resistor I'm looking for?
    It looks so tiny, I'd probably be better off just bridging and not worrying about it anyway.
    That one is too big. Bridging is the best option. Or just bypass those pads altogether. If you're not using an SMD resistor, there's no need to use them. It's there for convenience. Unfortunately, it's really REALLY hard to find resistors in that size over 1 or 2 watts.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

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