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Thread: First Build ~ Some Questions and Need Some Advice

  1. #1

    Default First Build ~ Some Questions and Need Some Advice

    I've been gathering some questions together, some stuff I just need verified; other's I haven't been able to find much information on (or I just don't know what to search for).

    First off, I've ordered the parts for making either of these stunt-sabers (no sound/FoC etc - just the main LED and an illuminated switch):


    (Not sure which saber I'll go with til I've actually compared them in person; but I'm edging towards the non-choke design)

    So, on with the questions:
    1) What's the best battery solution for traveling/conventions/trooping? I imagine carrying some spare AA/AAA batteries (or buying them from a corner store) is much easier than using an 18650/lithium battery - but from what I can see, the performance in an 18650 majorly outweighs the ease of AA/AAA? Just after some advice/opinions here.

    2) Regardless of which battery setup I end up choosing - is there a way to create an isolated circuit to the LED? (maybe with a small switch?)
    When I'm not bringing my saber to the VII premiere, I'll be displaying it, so if it's possible I'd like to be able to plug the saber in directly to power; completely isolated from charging or going near the batteries. (If so, how would this be done?)

    3) Can a Dremel (3000 series specifically) be used to drill retention screw/switch/mounting holes into the Aluminium MHS parts? If so, what sort of drill-bit would I need? Also would I need something like the '220-01 workstation'? I've got the Dremel specifically to help build the saber (new to them). I assume I'd need an 8/32 bit (which from what I can tell is .7mm?) for the retention screws/fixing the sleeve to the hilt; but I haven't been able to find one at my local (Australian) hardware store? Also how would a larger switch hole be made? (A larger bit?)

    4) I'm going to be building a cyan/light blue saber - I've noticed a few links to other suppliers of the LED modules (such as ledsupply and luxeon star) and have decided to go with a custom rebel 'cyan/cyan/royal-blue' LED. My partner however, wants a purple saber. I've seen some people with UV LEDs, royal blue/royal blue/red LED's, 'just' royal blue LEDs; there doesn't seem to be a 'main' way of doing this. At the moment I'm thinking of just getting the custom tri-cree with Red/Royal blue/Royal blue, and just wanted some opinions on if this is the best way to get a purple blade.

    5) Just a general question - what are some handy/useful things to have on the workbench when making these sabers that isn't immediately obvious? I've been watching all of Robs video's on the TCSS youtube page (I can't thank you enough Madcow/Rob) and am very envious of all the toys he has at his disposal. My current project is actually dividing my garden shed in two, weather-proofing it, and setting up a little work-area in there! So I'm compiling some handy bits for it.

    Thanks guys!
    Last edited by CharcoaI; 05-06-2015 at 09:51 AM.

  2. #2

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    Welcome!

    Initial thoughts...

    1) I rarely travel with sabers - I'll let someone else chime in
    2) The easiest way would be to order a Tri-Cree/Tri-Rebel, use 2 dice for you saber/battery setup, and make a completely different circut for the 3rd dice that runs on a wall pack.
    3) I don't think you can use a dremmel to drill precisely unless you have some kind of drill press setup for it. I would find it difficult.
    4) Purple is a combo of a red and Royal blue Dice

  3. #3

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    may the fourth be with you!!!!!!!! (late comment). cool saber i like it!
    Last edited by obi2kenobi14; 06-02-2015 at 12:32 PM.

  4. #4
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    1) Depends on how you're driving them. Theoretically whatever you can fit and you may be able to put in whatever you have on hand.

    2) Yes, typically we cut of the driver to isolate the batteries. You just want to do the opposite. With the appropriate wiring of a recharge port and a "wall wart" you could do this no problem.

    3) I'd rather use a had drill than a dremel. Dremels have no torque. Yes, you can get the press attachement but it's not going to work well for larger holes. A legit drill press is best if you can get one.

    4) Personally I like RbRbR. I like a darker purple. There's a reason there's no "main" way.

    5) The "helping hands" deals with clips and magnifying glasses. Quality tools are great too. Get a nice soldering iron. If you don't plan on doing electronics a lot a $20-30 pencil iron is worth it over the $10-15 cheap crap ones. The crappy ones the plating on the tips comes off and they get wobbly. I've had a benchtop iron for like 8 years that just keeps trucking.
    RED LEADER Standing by!

  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by xwingband View Post
    1) Depends on how you're driving them. Theoretically whatever you can fit and you may be able to put in whatever you have on hand.
    So I'd be connecting the resistors to the battery module rather than the LED module; so if I could swap out the battery pack easier and do both options? This makes sense in my head (I just never thought of doing that) but want to make sure I'm understanding correctly?

    2) Yes, typically we cut of the driver to isolate the batteries. You just want to do the opposite. With the appropriate wiring of a recharge port and a "wall wart" you could do this no problem.
    I'm a little confused by this, could you elaborate? I've realized though, if I'm going to set the saber up for use with either 18650/AAA or AA batteries; if I also wire in a recharge port, I can recharge the 18650 that way. Then if I just want to display the saber, take the 18650 out (ie if I remove the battery, the circuit will still work if it's plugged into the wall?)

    3) I'd rather use a had drill than a dremel. Dremels have no torque. Yes, you can get the press attachement but it's not going to work well for larger holes. A legit drill press is best if you can get one.
    I rewatched Madcow's video on this and forgot you can just use a drill. Now I just have to wait for the drill/tap set to come back into stock on the store or try and find an imperial set in metric-land!

    4) Personally I like RbRbR. I like a darker purple. There's a reason there's no "main" way.
    Of course, from what I can gather this is the most common setup though (Rb/Rb/R) and what I was going with originally - I just hope it's right for her!

    5) The "helping hands" deals with clips and magnifying glasses. Quality tools are great too. Get a nice soldering iron. If you don't plan on doing electronics a lot a $20-30 pencil iron is worth it over the $10-15 cheap crap ones. The crappy ones the plating on the tips comes off and they get wobbly. I've had a benchtop iron for like 8 years that just keeps trucking.
    Helping hands! Forgot about those, I'm sure they'll be handy! Also I'm going to have to find a nice strong vice I think, it looks like cutting the sleeve material and drilling retention holes would be an absolute nightmare without one.
    Last edited by CharcoaI; 05-07-2015 at 06:21 AM.

  6. #6

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    Others have covered the bases pretty well, but I'll chime in here with my 2 cents.

    1) I agree with your assessment. If this is a stunt saber then your easiest option for traveling/trooping will be to just power it off of AA or AAA cells simply because they are commonly available. 18650 batteries are awesome and last a really long time on a charge, but you're not likely to find them at a local drug store at whatever city your conn is in. Also, the logistics of recharging them might prove an inconvenience (the charger is one more thing to pack, and then you've got to find a power outlet). You could always put things on JST connectors so you can easily swap out resistors and battery later if you want to use rechargeable ones later. It's a stunt, so you should have lots of room in there.

    4) If you are building Cyan saber, I'd just get a Cyan Rebel and be done with it instead of trying to mix the color with multiple LEDs, but that's just MO.

    Good luck with your build. Post pics when you're done!

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by JakeSoft View Post
    You could always put things on JST connectors so you can easily swap out resistors and battery later if you want to use rechargeable ones later. It's a stunt, so you should have lots of room in there.
    I've decided that I'll try each config, and I'll wire the resistors on the battery pack end, then put quick disconnects after so I can swap between the battery packs

    4) If you are building Cyan saber, I'd just get a Cyan Rebel and be done with it instead of trying to mix the color with multiple LEDs, but that's just MO.
    But then it wouldn't be as bright!
    Battery life be damned, I want a stupid-bright saber :P

    Good luck with your build. Post pics when you're done!
    Definitely, I plan to do a build log once I have everything

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