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Thread: I think my PC 3.5 is not right

  1. #21

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    Ok so after a bit more trouble shooting I came back to re-wiring, and going over the board once more. A fully charged battery, and a fresh SD card and it seems that I have what I want....so it seems. I'm pretty sure that after all this go around, I have a bad SD card.
    Incidentally this card may have been part of the issue on another board as well. So I've ditched the card and pulled a backup out of my reserve pile.
    Now I am on the look out for a 2GB SD card for my PC 2. According to the manual 2GB or less is what to use. However I am pretty sure a 4GB has done the trick in a PC 2 in the past. I may be wrong. Or getting old and thick...or..both

  2. #22

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    Just a quick question: did you solder on the board with the SD card inserted?
    "Everyone who drinks this water will be thirsty again, but whomever drinks the water I give him will never thirst."

  3. #23

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    Quote Originally Posted by DarthMace View Post
    Just a quick question: did you solder on the board with the SD card inserted?
    Nope. Never do, never have. I've not ever done it, but I have heard of what takes place when someone does wire work on a board with the SD card in. Apparently its really bad not just for the SD card, but for the board as well.
    In my case here, this was a combination of a bad SD card, software tweaking, and ultimately learning more in depth how to trouble shoot issues during a build. I'm still a "novice" builder in most respects, more over because I treat this is a hobby. Not as though I can make a living. All that said I'm really still learning, my pov in being a novice is knowing the basics and moving up from there.
    Of course from time to time I am a bit rusty and do need to get a refresher by doing a bunch of reading

  4. #24

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    So there is another member with a similar issue with the FOC/main LED's. The bank(s) config files and the override files. As I was reading his post I thought I might haul out my saber and give it a few spins. Turns out that "bank 2" is some how bad. My other two banks don't shut down my saber and reboot it. Only this one. So I recharge the battery.
    I made a copy of "bank 1" in a folder, that is after making two copy's of the contents of the SD card in two separate folders (one backup just in case). In one of these folders I have the original contents. With my copy of "bank 1" I replaced it and named it bank 2.
    Here's what bank 2's config file looks like
    // PCv3 config
    led=2000,0,0
    fled=900,1000,0
    focmix=111
    resume=1
    shmrd=72
    shmrp=6
    shmrr=12
    shmr%=0,50
    focd=200
    focp=10
    focr=10
    foc%=0,50
    qon=0
    qoff=0
    fade=0
    flks=2
    flkd=12
    idlepulsing=1
    idleled=0
    I'm a little miffed this happened again. So I may be back to square one.

  5. #25

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    So now here I am again with the results of my little experiment.
    As it turns out the new "bank 2" also does exactly the same thing as the old bank2. In the middle of a swing the saber shuts off and reboots that sound bank. It does not do this on the other banks.
    So.
    I took the same file folder with my new copy of bank 2 and formatted a whole different SD card. Then copied all that info to the SD card. So far so good. I don't get a shut off and reboot to speak of at the moment. Of course I will play test some more on my days off. I will reply if I have any new developments.
    EDIT: So here is the update. As soon as I was done typing the above line and hit enter. I turned on the saber, took a few swings and guess what? Shut down and reboot of "bank 2"
    Is there any thing that any of you have heard of that would make one bank not work correctly while the others are okay?
    Hardware?
    Software?
    Last edited by Noyl Wendor; 06-11-2015 at 10:42 PM.

  6. #26

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    Does Bank2 draw more current than the other banks? Do you have a specific color combination that could be drawing enough current to cause issues with your battery pack? If the pack is low or weak, or the PCB is getting tripped from a higher draw on bank2, then that could be a possibility. Try giving bank2 identical settings (color, flicker, everything) to a known good bank. If it still causes problems, you could have one or two glitchy sound files. It's possible one of the swing files is corrupt.

    You've already swapped SD cards, so no sense trying that again. It's unlikely you have two cards bad in the exact same way.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  7. #27

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    Quote Originally Posted by Silver Serpent View Post
    Does Bank2 draw more current than the other banks? Do you have a specific color combination that could be drawing enough current to cause issues with your battery pack? If the pack is low or weak, or the PCB is getting tripped from a higher draw on bank2, then that could be a possibility. Try giving bank2 identical settings (color, flicker, everything) to a known good bank. If it still causes problems, you could have one or two glitchy sound files. It's possible one of the swing files is corrupt.

    You've already swapped SD cards, so no sense trying that again. It's unlikely you have two cards bad in the exact same way.
    True by this time I've eliminated the possibility of two SD cards being the same kind of "bad".
    As for my sound bank. I'm running a Tri-cree BBW. So I decided to keep my sound bank settings all the same. So bank 2 should not be drawing any more current than the others. Also I've used two or three different fonts and had the same result. That's how I've pinned the issue to bank 2.
    It did occur to me that a bad battery could be the cause, I've tested it with the meter on full charge and no charge. Though I'm thinking of testing the run time to see if the battery dies out sooner than it should.
    Other wise I'm right back to thinking its a fault in the board

  8. #28

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    Hrm. Unless there's something screwy in the override.txt file, I'm kinda stumped here.

    I'm sure you remembered to reformat the card before changing the fonts around, so that shouldn't be an issue.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  9. #29

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    Yeah SS, I'm stumped as well. So I gutted out my hilt and I'm prepping to send it off to have it looked over.
    The way I see it, if it is the board then it gets fixed and I finally find out what is wrong. If its not the board he's pretty good at his trade and I don't mind having him do the extra and me putting up some dough for gaining the knowledge that the board is fine.
    On the other side, if it is in fact the battery, well I'll just order a new one and hope for the best LOL there's no way (just like SD cards) that two of them can be the same kind of "bad".
    This one was a bother, and I will accept defeat....this time.
    Thanks for all the help. I'll drop an update when I get the board back.

  10. #30

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    Okay so here is my up date on the board I sent out to get looked at. I apologize for digging up an old thread
    I wired it back up (the board) and charged up the good battery I have. Put it on the chassis and installed it. After a few swings or more it shut down rebooted and I was able to start it back up like nothing had happened.
    I again went back through the process of making sure the battery was charged, new RC port, recheck of the wiring. It still did it. During the process I found that I had to comment out all but the top two lines of the color profiles sections in the "override" to make it so my Main LED's (tri-cree GGW) would work and my FOC would also function. As it turns out that did the trick.
    As a side question...If I were to raise the values in my last two lines (color profiles) in the "override" file, would that make the main LED brighter? This I ask because I'm thinking the green is still a bit dim.
    Now for the saber rebooting and shutting down, it seems that I have fixed the issue. I would like to make note that in all three of my banks config files I have the "resume" set to zero, as you see below.
    // PCv3 config
    led=2000,0,0
    fled=900,1000,0
    focmix=111
    resume=0
    shmrd=72
    shmrp=6
    shmrr=12
    shmr%=0,50
    focd=200
    focp=10
    focr=10
    foc%=0,50
    qon=0
    qoff=0
    fade=0
    flks=2
    flkd=12
    idlepulsing=1
    idleled=0
    Each bank is set exactly the same, each with a different font in it. In all three banks when I had the "resume" set to 1, is when I experienced the issue that started this thread. So I really can't say for sure if that was the problem. It is the one thing that I have done different in this entire venture.
    If any one has any more thoughts or theory's I'm up for any/all discussion So I'm off to paste this thread link to another member who seems to be having the same issue.

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