It sure does have the flash on clash. I would just look under the hasbro sound board thread that I linked to earlier and see how James3 wired his up. This is the way mine will be wired in shortly. Basically you end up with the wire that went to the bulb just being there or you can just take it off completely.
Originally Posted by Jedi Belinos
I wouldn't do that for one reason... It makes it difficult to change your mind later and use the board for something else. It's a PITA to try and solder the wires back onto the board when it's not necessary. Just my $.02.
ok its ghetto but i figured out what im going to do thanks to your advice. Im gonna use two completely dif circuits for the led and sound, and im going to put resistors in both so i can use 4aaa for the sound board and a 9v for the 5w LED (its gonna be a tight squeeze for sure) And ill put two of tims switches in line with eachother so i can put an activation box over them and attatch a plate so i can turn both switches on with one press. Ok thoughts?
I really wouldn't use 4aaas on the sound board. Two is plenty. It won't really like more than 3v anyway. If you search around I am sure you will find many stories of people frying these boards by using to many batteries.
First of all 6 volts to a Hasbro is just asking to fry it.
Second, using a 9 volt to run a 5w Luxeon works but you will be changing batteries every 15 minutes.
Third, Two switches are not needed unless that is just what you want. I use two so that I can play with the saber and not be distracted by the sound. You can either use a switch designed for two circuits or as stated before use a latching relay for the LED.
I also explained not to long ago that with a multi position slide switch you can trigger the sound (momentary) and trigger the LED (latching).
As for the power, a 6AA MHS battery holder would do the trick for all of your needs. Just get the 3 volts off of two batteries in line for the board.
Or for a fun project, use the 7.2 volt rechargable pack Tim has and power the hasbro off of a 2aaa or smaller pack.
Red 5 "Move Dangit! I gots Snitz to blow up!"
Ok, sounds like a plan. But i think that two switches would look pretty cool so i think im gonna go with that set up, but ill use the 7.2 nimh rechargable pack and a 2aaa pack for the sound board. Thanks for all the help guys
Cool deal. Have fun with your build.
Red 5 "Move Dangit! I gots Snitz to blow up!"
James, I hate to challange your vast knowladge of electronics, but I've been running my hasbro on 6v (4AAA) since March, and it's still working. The only thing I had to do was bypass the fuse.
I'm not claiming that this is the "right" way to do it, but it works and has for 9mo.
Which board? The ones that are 4.5V to begin with are cool at 6V. I have yet to have a 3V one last that long on 6V.
RED LEADER Standing by!
Big keyword there boss.
Yeah I know it's only 6 volts dc with at most an amp or so. So no big deal right? I have jumped fuses once or twice myself but...
As you know by doing that if for some whacked reason there is a surge or something there is nothing stopping the possibility of total meltdown.
You are also using yours as a driver for the LED as well right? Keep in mind that will help use the extra current your running through there.
I know that the boards have been run at 6 but there is 0 benefit from doing so unless you are wanting to actually drive the LED with it. And then we all whine about the FOC
Red 5 "Move Dangit! I gots Snitz to blow up!"
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