PVC Lightsaber?

[Lucrono]

A quick question for those who have tried it before. If one were to attempt to make a LED lightsaber (Cree XP-E2) would the LED ever become too hot for the pvc and melt/morph it?

[Robust Stardust]

A quick question for those who have tried it before. If one were to attempt to make a LED lightsaber (Cree XP-E2) would the LED ever become too hot for the pvc and melt/morph it?

Yeah, I'm in a similar situation, using PVC for a blade holder. I should think not, PVC schedule 40 pipe is rated for a maximum working temperature of 120 deg. F, and many builds have used PVC as the main body and/or blade holder. Check out Jay-gon's PVC Hilt Tutorial for more info.

Copper end caps have been used as PVC heatsinks: see Darth Midian's thread.

However, TCSS now carries a custom 1" OD LED heatsink module, which is made to fit into 1" ID pipe. The Cree XP-E2 should have similar, and even better, heat handling properties than the LEDs in these tutorials.

Hope this helps!

[Gnar-Gnar Gin]

I've made over 20 PVC sabers now, and have never had issues with LEDs over heating the material.. i've been using schedule 40 no problems, and recently began using the cree LED's in them. 3/4 copper tubing works great as a heatsink or use tim's which are excellent as well...

[Whi-ja]

YES!! What he said ^^.
Go to the hardware store, and buy some 3/4" (16-17mm) copper end caps. You can hammer the bottom flat and drill a couple of holes for the wire leads, drop in the LED, CAREFULLY glue the lens assembly over it, and that's all it takes. I like to leave a little air space for cooling, and I typically mount the cap inside the PVC with screws that bite slightly into the copper; both of these tactics ensure adequate heat sinking. How you fit it into the PVC depends on the inner diameter of the PVC you are using, but I work the mounting screws into the external hilt design so they don't appear out of place. It's all a big puzzle with many right answers. Happy Building!!