Hybrid Lightsaber

[RainS]

Ok, Hi everyone!
As I already said, I'm new in the saber building's scene and I have an idea for a saber, but I don't
know if it's possible to realize and if the answer's yes, how to choose the pieces.

My idea is to build a lightsaber with an hilt that can hold two tipes of tube: a normal polycarbonate tube in order to use the saber as a display saber, and (my idea is using an adapter) a carbon fiber tube like this http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Ca...Tube-P939.aspx
for stunt combats.

My questions are:
- Is there at the custom saber shop an adapter for the carbon fiber tube? (I didn't find it)
- Can I use it for switching from the carbon fiber to the polycarbonate tube?
-Is there any kind of compromises that I have to make for building this saber?

Every suggestion is welcome
Thanks in advance

P.S. I'd love something like this

[Silver Serpent]

1. At this time, there are no adapters for the carbon fiber blades in the store. You'll have to make your own.
2. If you build a proper adapter, you'll be able to swap back and forth without issue.
3. No real compromises that I foresee, though you'll obviously lose the lighting effects with the CF blade in place.

[Don Se Wion]

Actually, for sparring there's no real need for cabon fiber blades, policarbonate blades are able to sustain quite a lot of beating.
As a trainee and instructor in a saber combat academy, as far as I remember I broke my first policarbonate blade after two years of service.

[Noyl Wendor]

Actually, for sparring there's no real need for cabon fiber blades, policarbonate blades are able to sustain quite a lot of beating.
As a trainee and instructor in a saber combat academy, as far as I remember I broke my first policarbonate blade after two years of service.

I'm inclined to agree. I have blades that I purchased when I first started using LED (after using EL blades) they have stood up, with more than a few years worth of dueling other polyC blades, schlagers, and the occasional bokken.
As well I have two shorter polyC tubes that are/have been used for almost 4 years as escrima sticks. My only issue with those is I've been known to tap too hard on a few inner bicepts LOL
I'd say if you are looking to do a conversion go with the KISS method. Do your install and get a couple polyc blades, can't really go wrong there IMHO.

[Sevinzol]

I would also stick with just poly carb blades, unless you have some special need for carbon fiber.

but to answer you questions:

My questions are:
- Is there at the custom saber shop an adapter for the carbon fiber tube? (I didn't find it)
- Can I use it for switching from the carbon fiber to the polycarbonate tube?
-Is there any kind of compromises that I have to make for building this saber?

What you are looking for is something like the 1" to 3/4" Reducer These are also called 'Bushings'. You will need to have the ID match the CF Blade's OD. I doubt you will be able to find an off-the-shelf size match but anyone with a milling machine or metal lathe should be able to make one. Once you have it, I would just drill a pass-through hole from the blade holder's set screw to the CF blade.

Switching between the two blades will affect the saber's center of gravity/ balance. The blades will have different weights and the bushing will also be a factor. Keep that in mind if you plan on practicing with your display blade.

[RainS]

Actually, for sparring there's no real need for cabon fiber blades, policarbonate blades are able to sustain quite a lot of beating.

Yeah, but I thought that for choreography purpose the carbon fiber was a better alternative because of the post-production effects

2. If you build a proper adapter, you'll be able to swap back and forth without issue.

Unfortunately I'm not able to build one on my own. I was hoping to find one in the shop

I'd say if you are looking to do a conversion go with the KISS method. Do your install and get a couple polyc blades, can't really go wrong there IMHO.

I could buy a colured polycarbonate tube like this http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Co...tube-P430.aspx
for a better rotoscoping

weights and the bushing will also be a factor. Keep that in mind if you plan on practicing with your display blade.

That's true I've never considered that



Thanks for all your answers

[Jay-gon Jinn]

For references in rotoscoping, you could also wrap the polycarbonate blade with some flourescent colored tape in a spiral pattern...i've seen that done before and it looked to work just fine.

[Johannes Huber]

Jay-gon Jinn is quite correct that pulling a key off of the taped blade will be much easier than pulling one off of the CF. What you will want is a very bright/fluorescent tape so you get minimal shadowing from actual lighting conditioning and in a color that is as far as possible from the colors surrounding it (this is one of the 2 main reasons we mostly use green instead of blue nowadays, the other is that blue is a "noisier" channel of color in compositing programs than green). It's pretty much common sense: the 3 main color "keys" are red, blue or green (the primary colors in the illuminated color spectrum on computer monitors). Red is almost never used since it is too close to caucasian flesh tone and will often result in the actors being partially pulled along with the red areas being keyed. Blue is the noisiest channel for keying and won't work if anyone or thing in the shot is predominantly blue or wearing blue. The green channel, the only issues I've had were with blonde hair or some tones of asiatic skin. If the sabers are the only green screening you should be able to pull a key pretty easily since they aren't casting or bouncing a noticeable amount of light ("green spill") and off you go. Good luck!

[Lobezno]

Yeah, but I thought that for choreography purpose the carbon fiber was a better alternative because of the post-production effects

The carbon fiber is ideal for post-production effects for 2 reasons:
1) The low bending or whipping.
2) The width. I think the 1 inch blades are too thick for rotoscoping. On the contrary, the 3/4 or so are perfect, because you can give the genuine point shape to the light blade. And it's movie accurate, nothing more to say.

I myself did the same question here, and have acquired a good set of 3/4 polycarbonate blade with 1 inch to 3/4 adapters. If we break a few, we'll go for the 3/4 '' cf blade.

The colour tape I agree, green or red, maybe red is the colour that appears less washed in high speed strikes. Personally I prefer a matted finish, the shiny can give you a bad reflection under hard light.

If you wanna see my rotoscoping, try Dolph VS Sly in youtube, it's done this way I tell you here.

Let me add a thought about the saber you like. It's a Graflex style one with lots of screws and nuts, hand made looking only the aesthetic but not the handling. Look the small clear grip you got there, if you want to make some flourish or just basic spins, walking with The Force, etc, you'll get a bruised hand I love the Luke's ROTJ, and the Obi-Wan ANH, but I prefer ergonomic design.