How do "you" go about with a sinktube overlay?

[Ryma Mara]

I gotten an idea and ive transfered it to a pice of paper and cut it out, but it dident work out that great.

I was just wandering how others do the overlay, like how they get the idea and such.

[SilentBob501]

I would check out "The Big Yellow Box" heres a link...

http://bigyellowbox.tripod.com/index.htm

Theres some good tutorials with instructions about making overlays with sinktubes and pvc.

[xwingband]

The same would for going over the MHS. You have to cut it out slowly and sand/file the edges to perfection so that it slides over easily.

[Ryma Mara]

What grit would you recamend using?

[Jedi-Loreen]

I doubt someone would recommend any one grit. You should use several, working your way from a course grit, like maybe 100, to get the sharpest edges off, then different finer ones to make them smooth, like at least 400 to finish off.

Be careful that you don't scratch up the chrome finish. Sand from the inside, where you can. Or put masking tape on the outside of the tube to protect the finish when you are sanding the edges of your cuts.

[Jedi Ranger]

When I plan and design my overlays, I first take a piece of paper, wrap it around the material I'll but cutting, and tape it. Then, I remove the paper, fold it flat (lengthwise), and then begin drawing. I'll usually have a rough plan sketched out before this.

Trim the paper to length, and draw away.

Anyway, I draw just on one 1/2, and then I slide the paper back on to have a rough look. Some lines usually need to be adjusted, one way or another.

When you have a design you like, cut it out. I use scissors and a knife.

Then, slide the template back onto the metal shell, and trace with a sharpie. Be careful, as sharpies are supposedly permament, but it can actually be rubbed of with some general handling.

Once the layout is finished, carefully remove the template (to save as reference for later).

Now, the messy part. Dig out the all mighty Dremel, and go to work. Depending on the lines designed in, you may prefer to drill corner pilot holes with a drill first, for sharp curves. I usually use a regular cutting disc. To expand the tighter corners, I also use a Tungsten Carbide Cutting bit (Dremel bit #9901).
http://www.dremel.com/en-us/attachme...=66240&I=66303

Make sure you have a firm grip on the dremel, as it is really easy for it to skip, especially on fine work.

When you are finished, use at least 2 sand paper sheets, as Loreen stated above, for finished the edges.

Well, I think that about covers what I wanted to say, to help you out.

Good luck.

EDIT IN: One thing I forgot to mention. When using the regular brass (chrome or plain) sink pipes for overlays, keep in mind that the pipe is actually under pressure, and will spring open, if too much material is removed around the circumferance. It wants to flatten out. So, don't try to get cutouts too long and fancy, or it won't sit flush against the base hilt.

You'll see what I mean, if you cut a small ring of pipe off one end, and then cut through the ring; it'll spring open.

[Ryma Mara]

Thanks JR, JL, Mucho help. Thaks for the input on the "springing", duly noted.

[Jonitus]

JediRanger does his overlays the same way I do mine. The only thing I will add is, if you can swing it financially, is to pick up the flex shaft extension for the Dremel. It is ALOT easier to handle and gives you a better means of control over your cuts. You'll have to hang your Dremel so it hangs vertically, so the flex shaft doesn't bind, but that's pretty minor.

When cutting, I always use two hands. My right hand holds the tool, and my left is on the workpiece, bracing my right hand.

[Jedi Ranger]

LOL - I've heard that the flex-shaft is very useful! It came bundled with my XPR, but I have NEVER installed it yet.

Maybe I'll get around to it......sometime.

[xwingband]

It takes like 30 seconds... go... now... install it.

I almost always use the flex shaft too. Most useful attachment ever.