Newbie Stuntsaber Internal Setup- Suggestions needed.

[Talon Khronos]

Hi there, everybody
I'm planning on constuction my first stuntsaber and was wondering which Internals are most suitable for this project.
Since most colors on the Luxeon rebels are out of stock I dicided to go with one of those Cree XP-E2 LEDs.
Now my question is, is there anybody who made experiences with these and if so, what works best with them, concerning the buckpuck-or-resistor-question?
Also what powersource did you use and might it be enough Voltage to run the LED with just 4 AAAs/6V?
Again, only Stuntsaber, so no Soundcard on this one.

Thanks alot in advance

[Star Bird]

You could power any of those Crees with just a 3.7v battery but you'll need a resistor depending on the color.

[Whi-ja]

Hi there, everybody
I'm planning on constuction my first stuntsaber and was wondering which Internals are most suitable for this project.
Since most colors on the Luxeon rebels are out of stock I dicided to go with one of those Cree XP-E2 LEDs.
Now my question is, is there anybody who made experiences with these and if so, what works best with them, concerning the buckpuck-or-resistor-question?
Also what powersource did you use and might it be enough Voltage to run the LED with just 4 AAAs/6V?
Again, only Stuntsaber, so no Soundcard on this one.

Thanks alot in advance

First of all, welcome to an absolutely awesome hobby!

The Cree XP-E2 have forward voltage and forward current requirements that are similar to the Luxeon Rebels, but with differences in brightness for the various colors. I think you'll be very happy with using those LEDs (especially if you have no experience to compare them to . Any site that sells the Cree LEDs should also list the tech specs and brightness requirements.

Any time you ask buckpuck vs. resistor in this forum, expect the answer to be buckpuck (or other constant current driver). A resistor will work just fine, but you'll notice fading brightness as batteries drain current with use. The buckpucks, you'll have no loss of light, but they are a few dollars more. When I build stunt sabers for friends' kids, I use resistors since it's not worth the expense for the kids buying them. ($0.20 for a resistor versus $13+ for a buckpuck.) You'll be happy either way, but what you spend on one of Tim's buckpucks on this site you'll save in buying fresh batteries more often to keep a resistor-regulated LED looking bright.

If you go with a resistor, just PLEASE use the right one. You can use the resistor charts and calculators on this site, or you can go online to find resistor calculators like this one: http://www.led.linear1.org/1led.wiz

Also, if this is your first saber, please understand that different colors appear brighter or dimmer to the human eye. I find that green is typically brightest, for instance, regardless of which LED is in use.

Here is a picture of a red-orange Cree XP-E2 color-mixed with a green XP-E2, and focused using a narrow-spot three-lens setup; the LEDs are using current drivers (not resistors) off a 4.5V battery pack (so your 4x AAA setup would be more than enough current):

image.jpg

And here is a picture of a Cree Royal Blue stunt saber (on the right) next to one using the same LED with a current driver (on the left). In each, the batteries are about a week old, with similar use / battery drainage and the same blade build on each one. Only the internal setup is different. They started out the same brightness. A week later, they are no longer identical:
side-by-side Cree blues.jpg

Good luck!!

[Silver Serpent]

One thing to consider about the BuckPucks is that you need 5v minimum to power them properly. A 7.4v li-ion pack works well with the BuckPuck, and you will get a very well lit blade, with little to no dimming over the duration of the battery charge.

If hilt space is a concern (and it usually is), then a single li-ion and a resistor will take up much less room than a pair of li-ions and a BuckPuck.

I would personally recommend using a BuckPuck if you think you'll upgrade to a Petit Crouton or Crystal Focus in the future, since those boards also use a 7.4v power source. If you're not anticipating a sound upgrade, or if it's just an inexpensive build for a friend or kids, or if you want to use the Nano Biscotte or Prizm, then I would recommend using a resistor and a single li-ion.

[Talon Khronos]

First of all, welcome to an absolutely awesome hobby!

The Cree XP-E2 have forward voltage and forward current requirements that are similar to the Luxeon Rebels, but with differences in brightness for the various colors. I think you'll be very happy with using those LEDs (especially if you have no experience to compare them to . Any site that sells the Cree LEDs should also list the tech specs and brightness requirements.

Any time you ask buckpuck vs. resistor in this forum, expect the answer to be buckpuck (or other constant current driver). A resistor will work just fine, but you'll notice fading brightness as batteries drain current with use. The buckpucks, you'll have no loss of light, but they are a few dollars more. When I build stunt sabers for friends' kids, I use resistors since it's not worth the expense for the kids buying them. ($0.20 for a resistor versus $13+ for a buckpuck.) You'll be happy either way, but what you spend on one of Tim's buckpucks on this site you'll save in buying fresh batteries more often to keep a resistor-regulated LED looking bright.

If you go with a resistor, just PLEASE use the right one. You can use the resistor charts and calculators on this site, or you can go online to find resistor calculators like this one: http://www.led.linear1.org/1led.wiz

Also, if this is your first saber, please understand that different colors appear brighter or dimmer to the human eye. I find that green is typically brightest, for instance, regardless of which LED is in use.

Here is a picture of a red-orange Cree XP-E2 color-mixed with a green XP-E2, and focused using a narrow-spot three-lens setup; the LEDs are using current drivers (not resistors) off a 4.5V battery pack (so your 4x AAA setup would be more than enough current):

image.jpg

And here is a picture of a Cree Royal Blue stunt saber (on the right) next to one using the same LED with a current driver (on the left). In each, the batteries are about a week old, with similar use / battery drainage and the same blade build on each one. Only the internal setup is different. They started out the same brightness. A week later, they are no longer identical:
side-by-side Cree blues.jpg

Good luck!!

Wow, thanks alot for the long and precise answer. This helped alot to clearify my questions. Especially the effort you put into this with going into detail with images and what not.
So I guess it's gonna be a Cree with buckpuck then As far as I can tell from your photos these LEDs make amazingly bright light. I am very excited to see it in person.


@Silver Serpent

First of all thank you very much for your reply. Since this is my first saber, this will probably remain as a stuntsaber without sound. Therefore I hope hilt-space isn't the problem. As afr as I can tell,hiltspace really depends on the configuration, right?

[Silver Serpent]

That is correct. Many things can reduce the available space inside a hilt. Chokes, crystal chambers, placement of switches, battery packs, it all adds up fast. Find a place for your components, starting with the biggest. The first thing I try to find a home for is the battery pack. Then the sound board if I have one. Then the switches. After that, it's usually finding spots for decorative items.

[Talon Khronos]

That is correct. Many things can reduce the available space inside a hilt. Chokes, crystal chambers, placement of switches, battery packs, it all adds up fast. Find a place for your components, starting with the biggest. The first thing I try to find a home for is the battery pack. Then the sound board if I have one. Then the switches. After that, it's usually finding spots for decorative items.

Awright. Thanks for the suggestion. I think I will do it the same way as you. Furtonately I've got some LiIon batterys around my apartment. Maybe I get one of those to fit