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Thread: Sterling - Vintage Styled MHS Lightsaber (1st Build)

  1. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by snilam View Post
    I would say you are still on the small side. What kind of switches are you using? If av switches you are going to have issues as they take up alot of space aswell. Also are using this as a single handed, hand and ahalf, or twohanded saber? What you have is definately a single handed saber?
    I haven't decided on the switches yet. I am pretty sure that I am not going to use the ones TCSS sells, simply because I don't like the colour glowing switches and the choice of non glowing switches is rather small.
    I found a German shop who sells hundreds of different quality momentary and latching switches. See links below for some favourites:

    http://www.reichelt.de/Drucktaster-D...rtnr=MS+131+RT
    http://www.reichelt.de/Drucktaster-D...r=RAFI+120.104
    http://www.reichelt.de/Drucktaster-D...artnr=T+1212+A
    http://www.reichelt.de/Drucktaster-D...artnr=TP+42+W0
    They also sell the ones TCSS is selling, the shop is known for high quality electronic accessories.

    The way I use this saber will be mostly one handed, the space between pommel and activation box gives enough space for a second hand the way I would use it.

    Thanks to Ty_Bomber again for the link, this has shed some light.

    And thanks also to Forgetful Jedi Knight for the battery runtime estimate and your contribution to my knowledge
    The saber will be Green or a Green/Blue mix, depending on what is practical to do.

  2. #12

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    If you don't want your switch to light up, you can simply not hook up the LED in the switch. The LED terminals are completely independant from the switch mechanism.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  3. #13

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    Really? Good point, I didn't know that
    I think I still want to look for something else, the switches TCSS sells mostly look a bit too "prequel-saga" like to me... I was looking for something with more of an "industrial" style.
    But I am also not even sure where exactly to put them yet.
    Am I right that I will basically need three switches? On/Off, Blasterblock & blade lock?

  4. #14

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    The Nano Biscotte board uses a single momentary switch.

    The Petit Crouton uses two switches; one that is either momentary or latching, and an auxilliary switch that must be momentary.

    You will not need more than two switches. There are lots of different switch styles out there. Find something you like, that is compatible with your sound board, and you'll be fine.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  5. #15

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    2. one for activation, one for aux. Aux switch will serve as lockupand blaster block. A tap will engage blaster block a hold down will engage lockup

    if you are still looking at doing a really short hilt i would recommend tactiles for space saving sake.

  6. #16

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    Thanks for the clarification regarding the number of switches needed, that makes things a little easier.

    I think I will figure out where to place the switches when the basic hilt parts arrive and I can get a feeling for the whole thing. I will order the parts in January and take the rest of the time to prepare myself best for all the wiring stuff and to figure out which blade I should get.

    Thanks to everyone so far, you have been a great help. I will let you know when there is anything new to show!
    Info for everyone interested: price for all the hilt parts including powder coating - a little over 200$ (no electronics and blade)

    Best,
    Lilac

    sterling_parts.jpg
    Last edited by Lilac; 12-12-2014 at 11:44 AM.

  7. #17

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    Just a little update on this thread, parts are ordered!

    The stop of powder coating during the winter months slowed down the process a little bit and now that Powder Coating from the Custom Saber Shop is completely cancelled I was a bit frustrated. But I am now planning to do all the finishing myself and after talking to some people who are familiar with finishes like that, I am actually in good spirits again

    The Parts should arrive in a couple of days and I'll post some other updates then.

  8. #18

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    So we (my friend is building one too) picked up the parts today and I wanted to give everyone who's reading this thread a little update.

    But first of all, because I was reading through this thread again in the last days, I wanted to point out that this is not supposed to become an Obi Wan saber. It seems I was a little misleading about that. This is definitely Obi inspired but I didn't want to make one just like his.

    I also want to tell everyone who might be reading who has not yet started building a lightsaber that the parts you get stock from the custom saber shop are truly amazing. Tim has done a great job with these and once you hold them in your hand you'll instantly be motivated to keep going! Sure, if you are able to machine them yourself you'll get your saber to look even better - but these are a great, amazing start.

    We ordered just the basic hilt parts yet, since we plan to get the blades, LED's and soundboards from European sources to save tax. Unfortunately, the activation box style 7 (the Graflex styled one) was out of stock so I am currently missing the clamp from the original design. I am thinking about getting one from eBay but the only one I found is about 60$, which feels too much for me now - is that a common price?
    Anyway, just so you know that the parts are not complete yet...

    P1150824.jpgP1150825.jpgP1150826.jpgP1150828.jpg
    We bought a basic blade plug just to have something to start with. I plan on doing something with coils from a magnetic motor... we'll see.
    What I really love about the MHS parts is that you get some nice extras out of the box which I did not expect to be there. I always thought that having the additional holes around the emitter on the blade holder light up when the saber is activated would be neat. I planned to drill holes so that the light would shine through but when I unpacked the part, I found that there already was a machined channel for the small holes to light up. I really loved that attention to detail.

    P1150828-2.jpg
    This last pic is a little mockup on what I want the finish of the finished saber to look like. I am thinking about a slightly weathered gold/brass - grey/black finish. As I said the activation box is missing on this picture. This would go over the first rib towards the pommel. And there are no switches and ports just now - I will have to think about these next.

    Thanks everyone for reading!

    Cheers,
    Lilac

  9. #19

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    Looks pretty sweet!

  10. #20

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    Thanks San Tala!

    I am currently trying to find the time to make a detailed internal drawing to see how much space there really is. Rough measurements suggested a CF7.5 would fit but it would be extremely crammed - I want to try it nonetheless
    I'll keep you updated on the progress. To start with all the finishing, which I wanted to do before I wire everything up, I still need the Graflex Clamp. I have been searching for one for a couple of days now - they seem to be rather expensive.

    Whatever, I hope the next days will shed some light.

    Here's a sketch of what I want Sterling to look like.

    IMG_2975.jpg

    Thanks for all your support so far!
    I am really excited to start the build!

    Lilac

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