Question on Makoto Sabers

[DarkMessiah]

I currently own an in hilt LED saber, I fight entirely one handed I prefer fighting with the lighter thin walled blades as opposed to the thick walled but I can work fine with either. My question being I would really like to purchase a Makoto saber but I'm wondering how heavy they feel compared to the in hilt LED sabers, also weather Makoto uses thick or thin walled blades and lastly, I know makoto recommends a v3 for dueling but im wondering if a v3 plus is still fine for dueling, or is it much more cumbersome? Any Information would help If I messed anything up on this post sorry, I'm new to this forum and forums in general. Thank you

[Count Malik]

His sabers are pretty sweet man! very durable indeed! (the v3 at least) you should be even okay with the v3 plus even. His blades are poly-carbonate but they are thin walled, probably a bit thinner than what is supplied in the shop... BUT it's also much larger in diameter. Inside the actual blade is the foam that acts as a diffuser and protection for the LED strings, and trust me it does the job very well haha with that said... i have dueled pretty hard with my makoto and the blade has only cracked and broken once on the very end where the blade tip was... easy fix though and now it's been good as new for years now. They are great sabers with smaller diameter hilts, nice-simple designs, feels good in the hands. the balance is decent as well!

BUT... I personally feel that these days a tri cree/rebel saber powered correctly with a good blade can be just as evenly lit and still super bright, and even more durable. good luck man!

[DarkMessiah]

So in your opinion a 10w tri cree will be as bright as a v3? Also any note on if the V3 plus is really much heavier than the v3?

Thank you by the way!

[Count Malik]

Cant say for sure about the v3 plus- But it should be slightly heavier (if even noticeable at all)

In my opinion I think a 10w or something is plenty bright- when combined with a very well made blade (sanded+polyp+tcss film) or the tcss transwhite with about 6 ft of polyp. would make it certainly choice! What color were you thinking??
The v3 will always be even and probably the brightest choice of the two... although not by alot its hard to say!! haha if the makoto was a 100 in rated brightness the tri cree would probably be a 80 depending on your blade and color.

According to Makoto his sabers are brightest starting at RED >GREEN >Purple >White >Light Yellow >Blue> Lemon Yellow
While the cree can differ depending on how you wire it and what color(s) you have

[DarkMessiah]

I was looking to make a white saber and I was just looking on the luxeon site I guess they have quad led's would that be terrible hard to wire myself?

[DarkMessiah]

This is the ledhttp://www.luxeonstar.com/neutral-white-4100K-sinkpad-ii-23mm-round-quad-led-230lm

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

It depends on what you're wiring it to...

[Count Malik]

okay cool yeah you can definitely do a quad set up. would you be running sound or anything?? If not you might have to have some fun with wiring in resistors.

Essentially to wire these bad boys up it would be the same as a Tri. Which isn't really terribly hard. You have the choice of either running your LED in parallel or in series. If in parallel your positives will all be connect up to each other just like the negatives... (+ to +, - to -, + to +, - to -, + to +, - to -) this will make it so you'll run a higher amperage but not as much forward voltage... (as you are treating the LED's more subjectively) its also helpful to run in parallel if you were color mixing... but the downside of this wiring is you'll probably get less run time depending on your battery situation.... Hence the need to know what you would like to hook everything up to (sound or no sound) etc.. For solid colors I would say go for wiring in series. This would make it so your wiring would "Feed" from once dice positive to the negative. (White dice 1 + to - to white dice 2 + to - and so on). This also means that although you'll run less amperage (as its like running one big LED at the same amperage) you'll have to supply the adequate amount of forward voltage to the LED's. Making things much more sustainable for single color blades imo. Madcow has a great tutorial for wiring up multidie LEDs probably can explain it also much better than I. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8CWI...m8K8zVjaG7CaGQ But like FJK said it all depends on what you're hooking it up to.

[DarkMessiah]

Ok that video was very helpful thank you. And yes I would like to add sound preferably the Nano Biscotte Sound Module V2, and a quad led luxeon rebel in nuetral white, and I dont plan on adding FOC

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Yeah, that's not going to work. An 18650 doesn't have that much juice to run 4 dice, and the NB's only put out 2 Amps. You MAY be able to pull enough to run the third die using a PEX, and some creative wiring, but 4 dice isn't going to happen.