Ok So any suggestion to getting this general setup to work? A certain power supply? Different sound card? Or is running all four together as one big led not going to work? Again any information is appreciated
Ok So any suggestion to getting this general setup to work? A certain power supply? Different sound card? Or is running all four together as one big led not going to work? Again any information is appreciated
Running all four together will only work if you can fit a small nuclear power plant in there. Seriously though, you could use a PC with a 7.4V supply, but the run time will be iffy, depending on what battery pack you use. Of course the bigger the battery pack the bigger the hilt, and all that fun stuff.
Besides, "the more the better" isn't always the best - and that's true with saber building. A Tri-Rebel all white would work nicely with a NB, if you wire it right. Three tends to work better than 4 in saber hilts, and it has the added advantage of being able to be run by a less expensive sound card.
Last edited by Forgetful Jedi Knight; 11-15-2014 at 08:09 PM.
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Ok so If I wanted to run the neutral white Rebel tri-star wired in series, with no FOC, with a NB sound card, I would then need a power extendor, a 1000MA buckpuck, a momentary switch and an appropriate power supply?
Side Note for the white tri-star it says max 1000ma but it recommends 700MA do most use the recommended or the max?
You would need to wire two of them in parallel. and run the third as a direct drive (think the wiring like a PEX). Each of the die would need an appropriate resistor attached to them.
You can NOT run all three in series. The combined voltage is 9+ volts and you will only have 3.7V. Also the NB does not use buckpucks.
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All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
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2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law
"Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
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Single lithium Ion Cell 18650, with a NB 2.0, a momentary switch, a white rebel tri-star LED two diodes running parallel a third running as a direct drive each having their own resistor, a speaker. Am i missing anything?
A couple of question,
Rough battery life estimate? 1/2hr-1hr?
Does the sound board take over the job of the buck puck? or would the blade now dim as the batteries die?
Considering the set-up, If i decided to go with a petite crouton v3 instead would the main benefit be access to a second li-ion battery giving me longer battery life?
To answer your questions:Originally Posted by DarkMessiah
1. It depends on the cell. I would guess it would be about an hour if you use the 3400 mAh cell.
2. It doesn't quite work that way, but it's close enough for this conversation.
3. Again, it depends on your battery solution. I don't think you would see a dramatic improvement over the setup I recommended with a NB. Normally running two dice is "plenty bright" to quote others, BUT you want to run 3 at "full power" so, you sacrifice runtime for that. Plus trying to fit 2 18650's will eat up tons of room in your hilt, IF you can fit it all into a hilt to begin with.
TCSS MODERATOR
All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
1. Forum Guidelines
2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law
"Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com
For Clarification a buck puck acts as a resistor with the added ability of regulating the current put out ie. 700ma or 1000ma. So When using the NB with resistors on the LEDs will I have blade dimming?
I know what a buckpuck does. No there shouldn't be any significant dimming, it will likely just shut off.
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All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
1. Forum Guidelines
2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law
"Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com
Ok sorry wasn't trying to imply you didn't just making sure my own concepts are correct, thank you.
using li-on packs will completely shut off the saber once it reaches a certain level of power (or lack thereof). I've never known li-on packs to use a slow discharge method like Ni-Mh packs which cause dimming with use. This is because there is a PCB board wired in such a way to protect the cells for improper charging and discharging. Personally i find it a extra pro when using li-on packs. Just make sure they are protected of course!
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