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Thread: PC Prizm Wiring Diagram for my Dark Jedi Saber

  1. #1

    Default PC Prizm Wiring Diagram for my Dark Jedi Saber

    Hey all, So i think ill be asking for gift certs for TCSS for xmas this year to pay for a saber with sound. With that being said, I have done lots of research, bought components for a simple PVC saber (almost finished and will post pics), and read every manual for the sound boards and have come up with this wiring diagram for the PC Prizm with a R/G/B Tri-Rebel, 3.7v 3400mAh 18650 Batt Pack, Recharge port, R.I.C.E. port, AV Latching with LED, AV Momentary with LED, and Premium Speaker. All the wires are color coded with a chart in the right hand corner and the resistors for the LED's are listed under the diagram. Thanks in advance. wirediagram.jpg

  2. #2

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    I don't see anything wrong with the wiring diagram. However I think that you will have an issue with having a lot of JST connectors inside the saber, especially if you are using smaller diameter PVC.
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    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
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  3. #3

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    This will be going in to a tcss saber. My pvc saber just has a battery pack, buck puck, LED Module and switch.

  4. #4

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    FJK is correct, 16 JST connectors is over kill, and will take up a ton of your space. Just use them on the most important things, that way they will be serviceable. Really 4 or 5 tops is enough to deal with any issues, and the rest can still be serviced by desoldering the items. Choosing wisely will create the space you need for an amazing saber! I can't wait to see your saber work!

  5. #5

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    Once I get the parts im going to do a test run without solder before I go permanent. Im doing this to save money when I buy future sabers so I don't have to buy a board everytime.

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by blkmorgan View Post
    Once I get the parts im going to do a test run without solder before I go permanent. Im doing this to save money when I buy future sabers so I don't have to buy a board everytime.
    Solder makes the world go around, and makes saber sound cards work reliably.
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
    1. Forum Guidelines
    2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law

    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

  7. #7
    Jedi Padawan Starwinder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Forgetful Jedi Knight View Post
    Solder makes the world go around, and makes saber sound cards work reliably.
    Yeah, i don't think you'll get very far if you're testing out the board without any solder

    I definitely think you should reconsider all those JSTs. Believe me, you'll find that just four of them will eat up space that you thought you had.
    --------------------------Cadence--------------------------

  8. #8

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    What I meant by no solder is just a test fit. Im 99.9% sure on the wiring. I just want to take wire with all the JST connectors attached and feed them in a reasonable pattern inside the hilt to see if I have even slightest chance. If they all fit without looking like the back of my TV Stand then it's a go. Hahaha

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