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Thread: New Blade Holder Design I like. Parts Check List Help First Though?

  1. #1

    Default New Blade Holder Design I like. Parts Check List Help First Though?

    So here are the parts I'll be getting. Saw the new MHSV1 blade holder style 27 and loved the design. So let me know if my parts are correct especially for the LED I'll be using. So does the adapter for V1 to V2 go under the blade holder if I'm using a V1 blade holder on a V2 body? Thanks and sorry for all the recent noob questions. Its been years since I've done a build so forgive me on that part. If there's anything else I can think of I'll let you guys know. TCSS MHS has really come a long way. =] And yes I'll get this saber done it'll just take me awhile like always because of money issues. Might be lucky here soon though.

    Holder27 MHSV1 Blade Holder Style 27

    MHSchokeS MHS choke style 1 short

    DF6F 6" Fluted double female threaded connector

    MPS10 MPS Pommel style 10

    Cclip MPS Clip

    MPSI5 MPS Insert style 5

    V2MV1F Male MHSV2 to Female MHSV1 Adapter

    4AAAJST 4AAA Battery Holder with JST connector

    RSLM Rebel Star LED & MHS Heatsink Module
    Luxeon Rebel Star (Green)

    TWBattle LED Trans White Battle blade 1" OD (36 inches)
    ** Clear Standard

    8323TSR 8-32 x .3" red thumb screw

    MWSGLS MWS Guarded Style Latching Switches
    Latching Guarded switch with red button Switch11

    2wire24g Dual 24 gauge wire (sold by the foot)

    1/8Heat 1/8" Heatshrink tubing

    Buck1000N BuckPuck 1000mA 4-wire
    "Your move!" -Obi-wan kenobi-

  2. #2

    Default

    Looks good to me. The V2 adapter will connect a male V1 end to a female V2 end, so you could use it to connect a V1 blade holder to a V2 main body.

    If you have room in that saber, you might consider bumping up to a 4xAA battery pack instead of the AAA. Your batteries will last much longer. A 7.4v li-ion pack would also make a nice upgrade in the future, and will save you money on batteries in the long run.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  3. #3

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    Hmm, okay. And I plan on using the new Prizm board in the future as well. Seems easier to me to wire up and work with than Petite Crouton honestly. And I forgot you can use a 4AA pack. So thanks for that as well. And thanks for the info on the main subject. =] Hope to finally get my custom saber done here soon and join the ranks again. Lol.
    "Your move!" -Obi-wan kenobi-

  4. #4

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    Oh no I meant the V2 adapter was gonna be for the V1 choke point. Or does it work in the same way?
    "Your move!" -Obi-wan kenobi-

  5. #5

    Default

    Any MHSv1 part that has a male end (e.g. choke, pommel, blade holder) will work with the adapter. It will connect to any MHSv2 part that has a female end.

    I used the blade holder as an example, but you can use it any place that it will fit.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  6. #6

    Default

    Blade holder, V2 adapter, choke, main body like always, then pommel? Like the adapter will be between the blade holder and choke point is what I was going for. Guess I should've been more specific on that part. I just don't know much about the new parts yet. x.x But I'm guessing the V2 adapter does work on say choke points as well if you have one? Sorry. :P The choke was gonna be under the blade holder but since the V2 parts aren't on the MHS builder yet I can't really draw up what I'm talking about.
    "Your move!" -Obi-wan kenobi-

  7. #7

    Default

    If you mean Blade holder (v1), v1-to-v2 adapter, choke (v2), double female (v2), pommel (v2), then that will work.

    The new parts work pretty much the same as the old ones, except that you can't connect v1 to v2 without an adapter. You can connect ANY MHSv1 male to ANY MHSv2 female with the adapter. If you don't understand the difference between male and female parts, there are some excellent "documentaries" available on the 'net.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  8. #8

    Default

    Alright thanks. I should be able to do everything here soon so. =] I'll keep updates. Selling another "saber" I don't want anymore but I'll still have to save up some for my custom project. Figured its about time to get back in the game. Also for the trans white blade how much feet of cellophane would you use for a nice, bright blade? I'm thinking maybe 7 feet or would that be too much?
    "Your move!" -Obi-wan kenobi-

  9. #9

    Default

    7 should be fine. I use between 4 and 8, and get good results.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  10. #10

    Default

    Cool. I told my mom I was going to start doing my own blades of sorts like VV style, so I wont be glueing the film in. Also would the new carbon fiber rod professional awesomesauce blades fit any of the blade holders or is it best to just wait for the adapters to come out? Would like to get some just to mess around with. Lol. Plus to have a Star Wars replica of sorts too.
    "Your move!" -Obi-wan kenobi-

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