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Thread: Video: Drill and tap your blade retention screw

  1. #11

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    Well im gonna try a different approach, im a machinist and i have access to a milling and cnc machinery. I was thinking of machining a flexible collar. ( hoping google translate was right on the flex collar )
    At this point my biggest set back on almost everything are measurements, inner hilt, parts, LEDs and so on, im finding very usefull info on this forum, just gotta keep searching for it.

    ** I meant a tapping collet, stupid google **
    Last edited by Thorgal Pain; 11-29-2015 at 09:11 PM.
    SON OF A SITH!

  2. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by Thorgal Pain View Post
    stupid google **
    Your English is better than my French. Using a collet to retain the blade looks really interesting. Good luck.

  3. #13

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    Interesting concept of using a collet like clamping system for holding the blade in place. My biggest concern would be if the aluminium would be strong enough so that you could tighten the blade retention without stripping the threads. It would make a super clean emitter though.

  4. #14

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    I already used that concept made of aluminum and if you choose the right tread it will be strong enough even more if you get the pieces annodized. Let me check my machinery handbook and i will pass the info.
    SON OF A SITH!

  5. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by Quixotic Jedi View Post
    Interesting concept of using a collet like clamping system for holding the blade in place. My biggest concern would be if the aluminium would be strong enough so that you could tighten the blade retention without stripping the threads. It would make a super clean emitter though.
    It's actually been done before, about ten years ago and it worked just fine...but those particular sabers used 3/4" blades so it was much easier to add the extra material to the collets. I'm sure it has been done since as well, with 1" blades, but I can't recall who it was that had done it.

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  6. #16

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    If you are planing on geting the pieces (hilt) anodized, a regular tread will do but, if not then i would go for an ACME tread, it is thicker ans sturdier than the regular tread but harder to engage the male and female treads togeter.
    Cant tell you which to use since i dont know the OD of the male part. Hope this helps.
    I forgot to mention that if you decide to get pieces anodized you should check with the company that will do it for type and thickness to adjust your treading accordingly.
    Last edited by Thorgal Pain; 12-03-2015 at 10:49 AM.
    SON OF A SITH!

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