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Thread: Wiring and Parts check Version 2.0

  1. #1

    Default Wiring and Parts check Version 2.0

    Silver Serpent, FJK, Jay-gon Jinn, Version 2.0.

    I believe I have correctly made the changes that Jay-gon Jinn suggested. There is a new diagram, followed by a parts list, and services needed. Thank you all for taking the time look and commenting, including anyone not listed above who wishes to take a look and comment. I appreciate everyone's help.

    V 2.0.jpg


    Parts list:
    Hilt style #3
    Pommel style #10
    Choke style #1
    Blade holder Style #15

    Internals: (Wiring and solder obviously)

    PC V3
    Power Xtender 2.0
    Li - ion 3.7 2600 18650
    Kill plug style #3
    2.1 mm Recharge Port
    3.1 R.I.C.E. Port Style #2
    Vibration motor
    luxeon Tri-Rebel (Royal Bl, Royal Bl, White)
    Luxeon 18deg Tri-Rebel Star Lens
    Luxeon Rebel Lens Holder
    1.25" Sink tube LED/Blade holder
    Luxeon star thermal tape
    MWS Long Latching 16mm AV switch (Bl Ring)
    MWS Short Momentary AV Switch (Bl Dot)
    5 jst quick disconnects
    Machined Button for Cover-tech clip
    1" thick walled PolyC 40" long (Blade)
    Bullet shaped tip for blade
    8/32 X 1/4" socked Head screw for Blade holder
    MHS Speaker mount V4
    Premium 28mm speaker
    MPS Clip
    MPS V2 pommel insert style #1
    Tall Bezel for illuminated switch
    Super lube synthetic grease
    aluminum 3/16 tube
    stainless steel 4/40 all thread
    stainless steel 4/40 hex nut
    Acrylic chassis disk for PC & 18500/18650 pk S2
    Chassis Disk Style 1
    USB to 3.5mm R.I.C.E.
    4.7 V Li - ion Charger

    Machine Service:

    Machine 16mm AV switch hole X 2
    Recharge port service
    Drill and Tap service X 2 Blade holder / Cover tech wheel
    Machined Button for Cover-tech wheel

  2. #2

    Default

    Toss those two DynaOhms away. You won't need them with the 3.3v accent LED pads, and you've also got them attached to the switch instead of the switch LEDs.

    Pay close attention to the wiring on your recharge port. Page 12 of the PCv3 manual has a diagram of how to wire it up. You may have just drawn it in a non-standard way, so be careful.

    I'm not familiar enough with wiring a RICE port, so I'm not 100% certain on that section. The rest of the wiring diagram looks ok.

    You shouldn't need the Power Xtender, as you have several built into the PCv3.
    Last edited by Silver Serpent; 09-11-2014 at 12:59 PM.
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  3. #3

    Default

    Silver Serpent, I will make those changes. The Recharge port wiring came directly from Madcow's video on recharge ports...made sure to watch several time to make sure it was right...the R.I.C.E. port is directly from the PC manual. I will post another diagram here with your changes in just a little bit to make sure I have it right.

    Thanks for the quick reply

  4. #4

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Silver Serpent View Post
    Toss those two DynaOhms away. You won't need them with the 3.3v accent LED pads, and you've also got them attached to the switch instead of the switch LEDs.

    Pay close attention to the wiring on your recharge port. Page 12 of the PCv3 manual has a diagram of how to wire it up. You may have just drawn it in a non-standard way, so be careful.

    I'm not familiar enough with wiring a RICE port, so I'm not 100% certain on that section. The rest of the wiring diagram looks ok.
    V 2.5 001.jpg

    Thanks for taking look Silver Serpent, this is version 2.5

  5. #5

    Default

    R.I.C.E. port wiring looks correct to me, but if it were my saber, is put the the two blue rebels in series rather than parallel. This will increase run time.

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  6. #6

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Jay-gon Jinn View Post
    R.I.C.E. port wiring looks correct to me, but if it were my saber, is put the the two blue rebels in series rather than parallel. This will increase run time.
    Thanks for the suggestion, I will do that!

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