First Saber Ever. Parts list inside. Help please, and thanks in advance.

[DopeChicken]

Brand new to TCSS, already bought my soldering iron just need to know if I am going to be getting all the right parts. I have been at this for the last couple of days trying to figure it out. I have started the list basically from top to bottom if from the emitter to the pommel with associated millwork, screws etc. Then with the electronics at the very end. I don't want sound, just an expensive flashlight...

Any time that I have said something in parenthesis punctuated by "[?]" it means that I am not sure about this part and was hoping for confirmation/clarification.

- Holder20; MHSV1 Blade Holder Style 20 (I didn't put millwork for the blade retention hole because the description of this emitter says it has (among others) one 8-32 hole which I assume is for blade retention but it is not clear in the pictures, am I correct in this assumption?)
- EARS; Bunny Ears
- MillWork; Drill and Tap Hole (4-40) location: "As is shown in picture number 4 for product "bunny ears" to attach ears to back (long) side of MHSV1 Blade Holder Style 20"
- SH440; 4-40 Socket Head (x2) (to hold bunny ears in place after millwork [?])
- 83238WTS; 8-32 x 3/8" Stainless Steel thumb screw (blade retention screw[?]) I was wondering about the length, because they offer 3/8, 5/16 and 1/2 inch I think??
- RGCcombo; Ribbed grooved/choke combo
- PowderCoat; RGC1 in Black Matte Tuscan
- DF3; 3" Double female threaded connector
- BOX9; Activation box style 9
- MillWork; Box 9, 10 and 17 Mounting holes service, location: "Top (0.5" from end? Or whatever you usually do) of Double female threaded connector).
- 440BH; 4-40 Button Head (x1) (retention for activation box style 9 [?]) Seems that this one screw, as well as the activation switch and charge port, are what hold the activation box in place. Am I wrong?
- MPS4; MPS Pommel style 4
- MPSI4; MPS Insert style 4
- Cclip; MPS Clip

(electronics)

- RSLM; Rebel Star LED & MHS Heatsink Module, Luxeon Rebel Star (Blue)
- SMRNW; 16mm Anti Vandal Short Momentary White Ring Switch
- SCJACK; Switchcraft 2.1 mm Power Jack
- PAN18650P; Panasonic Li-ion 18650 3.7V 3400mAh PCB Protected Rechargeable Battery.
- 37Li-IonCharger; 3.7 Volt Li-ion smart charger with 2.1 mm plug
- DynaOhm; 20mA DynaOhm Variable Resistor (x2) [It seemed like these resistors (which apparently automatically adjust their current to whatever current is needed?) might work for place in line between the LED activation switch and the battery, as well as between the battery/recharge/switch and the LED. I am a relatively intelligent guy but have absolutely zero experience with any kind of electrical work]

- Bought a multi-pack of heat shrink from RadioShack.
- Need to know what kind of wiring (Dual 22 or 24 gauge wire, 22, 24 or 26 gauge wire spools??) to get for the additional wiring I will be doing between the Battery Pack, Recharge Port, Resistors, and LED.
- I really am not sure which blade to get. I wish that the pictures on the website were bigger so I could get a better idea of the difference between the LED "TCSS style" battle blade 1" OD and the LED "Corbin style" battle blade 1" OD, as well as the different looks of the flat tip, and bullet tip, and between the double-wrap and quad-wrap of the "Corbin style" blades.

Whew, that took a while. Thanks again.

Dave

[Silver Serpent]

The DynaOhm provides 20mA of current, and will work for your switch LED. It will not work for your main LED. You can use either a 1ohm 2watt resistor, or just go without one. Either is acceptable with your setup.

You need a latching switch for a saber without sound. You could change the switch to a latching type, or get the momentary-to-latching converter.

[DopeChicken]

I am going to post a wiring chart I quickly made in MS Paint to help me visualize how this is going to work out. I hope it isn't asking too much but I was hoping someone could connect the dots for me by drawing in where the respective wires should be in paint, then uploading the image back onto the thread. Saber Wiring.jpg

Thanks again to Silver Serpent and anyone else who can help me out.

Dave

[Silver Serpent]

Saber%20Wiring.jpg

This should work. Watch the following video on wiring a recharge port, in case it's not clear: http://youtu.be/wemK6SD0Imo

Your edited diagram is not correct, and will not work. It won't damage anything, but it's not going to light up.

[DopeChicken]

I actually had watched that video twice before I posted here but wanted to make sure since he says he is using a soundboard and all. Thanks again for your help.

One final question, I swear. From the negative on the 1 ohm 2 watt resistor and the negative on the LED Switch, it looks like there is are two connections (the first marked by the big black dot, and the second marked by the end of the black wire. Is that intentional, should there be one wire going from the negative on the resistor to the "LED Terminal (-)" and then another wire going from "LED Terminal (-)" to "NO1"?

[Silver Serpent]

The LED terminal (-) is connected to both the NO1 and to the resistor. I put the dot there so you'd see it was a connection, and not just a bend in the wire. My apologies if it wasn't clear.

Resistors don't have polarity, so don't worry about which end is (+) or (-). The DynaOhm is a special case, and the polarity on it does matter.

[DopeChicken]

So I decided to change the battery to a 7.4v Li-ion 1400mAh 18500 Battery Pack, and have thus swapped out the 1 ohm 2 watt resistor for a 3.9ohm 5w. Correct?

[Silver Serpent]

That resistor is fine.

Why did you decide to change to a 7.4v pack? With a single die LED setup, it won't work any better or last any longer. The only reason I'd see to use a 7.4v pack is if you intend to upgrade to a Petit Crouton in the future, or if you were using a Tri-Rebel or other multi-die LED.

[DopeChicken]

I guess I thought it might (do either; last longer or be brighter). Really, it won't?

Plus when I ran the resistor calculator on the the site it said "NOT ENOUGH VOLTAGE" when I entered in all my specifications, which actually never really matched up either. I assumed that "Blue LUX III" refers to the LED on my list, which was "RSLM; Rebel Star LED & MHS Heatsink Module, Luxeon Rebel Star (Blue)", is that correct?

And I thought maybe the "NOT ENOUGH VOLTAGE" message referred to the fact that, as you said, I could do with or without the 1 ohm 2 watt resistor, but as before wasn't positive.

[Silver Serpent]

The LUX III is an older LED. The specs for the Rebels are on this page in the store: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Lu...Star-P523.aspx

Plug them into a resistor calculator like the one in my signature. The blue only needs 3.4v. Anything over that and you'll be wasting it as heat with a resistor.