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Thread: Converting static (empty) hilt to stunt.

  1. #1

    Default Converting static (empty) hilt to stunt.

    Completed my first hilt build, now wanting the electronics, etc. to
    make it shine: Main body 2 (with black o-rings in the grooves),
    pommel 4, insert 12, & blade holder 8 with copper powder coat.

    Here's where I'm thinking of going with this:
    - Rebel Star royal blue module
    - BuckPuck 1000mA 4 wire
    - 1" hilt safety plug
    - 2 AA holder w/ JST connector
    - MWS momentary to latching converter
    - male jst to mom blue ring switch to turn saber on
    - male jst for switch blue led ring
    - female jst for BuckPuck input
    - JST male & female kit to connect buckpuck output to rebel star

    - 36" Corbin battle blade (for a future order)
    - NB v2 in wishlist for a future upgrade, which should be made easier
    with the mws connectors

  2. #2

    Default

    If you use the BuckPuck, you will need a minimum of 5v to operate it properly. You could put a pair of 14500 li-ion cells (7.4v) in your AA holder and it'll work fine. Be sure you get the appropriate momentary-to-latching converter for your voltage.

    If you're looking at a NB upgrade in the future, I would just use a single li-ion and skip the BuckPuck. Use a resistor instead, and it won't need to be changed out when you add the sound upgrade. You won't be able to run the NB with a 7.4v pack, but a single 3.7v li-ion cell will run it perfectly.

    Don't forget the resistor for your switch LED as well. Calculate an appropriate one using Ohm's law or the resistor calculator in my signature. Or just grab the DynaOhm resistor from the store and call it good.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  3. #3

    Default

    Ok, based on your suggestions, I've deleted the buckpuck, and made a few other changes:

    - rebel star royal blue
    - hilt safety plug
    - 2.5 ~ 7.0v momentary to latching converter
    - 1 ohm, 2W resistor for rebel star royal blue
    - 220 ohm, 1/4w resistor for switch led.
    - female jst connector (rebel star to switch converter male out)
    - male jst connector (av switch led to switch convertor's female out)
    - TrustFire Li-on charger
    - TrustFire Li-on 14500 (sold in pack of 2, but only use 1)

    Is this battery comparable in size to an AA? If so, I will get the 2-AA holder with JST connector
    & a dummy AA to fill the second slot.

  4. #4

    Default

    Doublecheck the calculations for your switch LED resistor. That value is for a 7.4v pack, not a single 3.7v battery.

    The 14500 size is the same as AA size. It is not recommended to do in-hilt recharging with a battery holder. If you're planning on removing the batteries for recharging, then you'll be fine.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  5. #5

    Default

    Glad I waited to order. Maybe I was using math based off the original buckpuck parts plan.
    With the correct battery voltage, it looks like the switch resistor should actually be 22 ohm 1/8w.
    And the charger Im looking at buying: TrustFire TR-001 doesn't appear to have the 2.1 mm
    plug, so charging in the hilt wasn't part of my plan. (At least for this first saber)

  6. #6

    Default

    Sounds good. That charger is designed for out-of-hilt recharging, so you're in good shape.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  7. #7

    Default

    Thanks for the tips / help. I couldn't find a 22 Ohm 1/8w resistor in the store, so I just grabbed the DynaOhm
    you mentioned earlier.

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