Wiring Check, Please?

[Yorginsnarff]

Hello, Forums! I have followed advice and have taken notes. I now ask that one of you experienced saber builders tell me if my wiring diagram will work.
NOTES BEFORE HAND: I AM A LEFTY! I'M SORRY IF THE DRAWING IS BAD!
NOTES BEFORE HAND: I AM NOT USING THE FoC BOARD! THAT IS WHY NOTHING IS CONNECTED TO THE ORANGE WIRE!
Parts List:
1. Nano Biscotte V2: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Na...e-V2-P806.aspx
2. Nano Biscotte V2 Wiring Harness: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/NB...ness-P961.aspx
3. LED: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Re...dule-P653.aspx (CYAN/BLUE)
4. Battery: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Li...dule-P672.aspx
5. Recharge Port: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MW...Port-P877.aspx
6. Switch: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/12...itch-P921.aspx
7. Switch Resistor: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/20...stor-P847.aspx
8. Speaker: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Pr...eaker-P77.aspx
9. LED resistor: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/1o...istor-P21.aspx
10. Kill key/switch/plug: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Ki...le-2-P570.aspx
11. JST Connecter(s)
For LED: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/JS...hite-P957.aspx
For Recharge Port/Battery: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/JS...lack-P963.aspx
AND http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/JS...lack-P964.aspx
For Switch: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/JS...llow-P951.aspx
For Speaker: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/JS...reen-P956.aspx
AND A WHOLE BUNCH OF HEAT 20140907_190558[1].jpgSHRINK!
I have attached a picture with the items drawn to my liking. Please tell me if it is correct and if it will work. A legend IS included so you can tell just what the heck you're looking at XD.
(Please tell me if the image didn't upload)

ALSO: Does anyone know when the Nano Biscotte V2 will be restocked?

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Well, the diagram looks OK. The only minor thing is you should use a .47 Ohm .5W resistor for your main LED. Other than that everything else seems to be in order.

You should strongly consider some type of chassis system to prevent everything from rattling around inside your hilt.

The NB should be back in a couple of weeks, they are being produced as we speak.

[Yorginsnarff]

thank you very much! And yeah, I am going to put the electronics in a padded housing so everything is safe. I'm going to put a soft substance inside the hilt (probably those fake cobwebs that are sold in halloween stores) and shove those in, just so that when the saber comes into extreme battle, the electronics will be fine

[Yorginsnarff]

would this suffice?
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/47...stor-P947.aspx
I'm very sure the answer is yes XP

[Silver Serpent]

That is the correct resistor.

[Yorginsnarff]

Quick question
Ok so the switch I'm looking at has 4 connections. For the yellow JST connector I'm using, do I only need the connections with the + and - labels?

[Silver Serpent]

The (+) and (-) terminals on your switch are for the switch LED. The other two terminals are for the switch mechanism itself.

[Yorginsnarff]

oh! Then may you please direct me in the right direction? How would I wire the switch for the LED to work AND the switch mechanism? WHILE USING THE WIRING HARNESS AND JST CONNECTERS! XP
Thanks
Which part goes to the Nano Biscotte V2?

[Silver Serpent]

Well, that kinda depends on what you how you want the switch LED to operate. Three options are readily available.

1. Power indicator. The Switch LED turns on when you pull the kill key and remains on all the time. See page 12 of the NBv2 manual.

2. Power indicator that turns off during Deep Sleep. As above, except the LED turns off when the saber enters "Deep Sleep" mode, even if the kill key is not inserted. See page 13 of the NBv2 manual.

3. On/off with the blade. The switch LED turns on when the blade does, and turns back off when the blade is off. For this, just wire the switch LED in parallel with the main blade LED. You will need to splice the (+) of your switch LED to the White wire in the NBv2 harness, and the (-) to the Blue wire.

These options will require the use of a soldering iron. TCSS does not carry a y-splitter for the MWS system. You will also need an appropriate resistor for the switch LED. You have the DynaOhm in your parts list, and that will do the job just fine. For options 1 and 2, the source voltage is a 3.3v pad. In option 3, the source voltage will be the voltage of your battery pack.

Option 3 is what most people seem to choose, and it does not require you to do any precision soldering on the board itself.

[Yorginsnarff]

Thank you very much! You have been very helpful!