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Thread: Help / Tips With Etching

  1. #1

    Default Help / Tips With Etching

    I have been experimenting with acid etching. I haven't had much success. My guess is that its because of the type of metal I used. What do you guys suggest using for testing?

    I followed the instructions on this tutorial:
    http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index...9721.msg532824

    This is what I did:
    1. sanded at 240, then 400, then 600 (could not find sand paper above 600, would it be useful? maybe to make it look better?)
    2. Cleaned with warm water, then dish detergent
    3. dried with a microfiber cloth
    4. Wiped the part in acetone
    5. Taped the part (first time with masking tape, second time with packing tape)
    6. Taped my design onto the part
    7. Cut the design and remove the tape
    8. dipped it in ferric chloride (2:1 ratio, 1/2 cup of water, 1 cup of ferric chloride)
    9. I left the first part in for 20 minutes and then the sink tube in for 40
    10. dipped in cool water
    11. cleaned again

    1. sink tube
    2. I think is a fencing pole.
    Both seem too thick for the solution and just doesnt work as well as anticipated
    IMG_3727.jpg

  2. #2

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    On my recent build I did some acid etching. I used the root kill method. Which worked out pretty good for me. I followed Rogue9607 thread for his Satele saber ----> http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...ight=root+kill . I used a smaller ratio than he used since my part was smaller.

    I used:
    2 cups hot water
    3oz. salt
    3oz Zep Root Kill

    For the resist, I drew my pattern in Illustrator then had it cut out of some vinyl where I work.
    I used the sleeve material that Tim sells in the shop. I made sure I had everything covered that I didn't want etched.
    I mixed up the ingredients tested it out on a scrap piece first.
    For the final piece I left it in the solution for 5 minutes, rinsed off with water and brushed off all the build up of the eaten metal.
    Then polished with my dremel.

    This was my first time doing this so I can't say I'm an expert. I just followed Roque9607's trials and errors. Read his thread, he used different resists till he found one that worked for him. The results speak for themselves.
    I had access to the cut vinyl so that's what I used. I didn't try anything else.
    You can get the root kill at Lowes or probably another hardware store.

    It worked out better than I expected.
    Here's my thread with the pics ---> http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...hlight=sks1138

    Hope this was helpful. I'm sure others will chime in with suggestions and tips.

  3. #3

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    Masking tape isn't likely to give you good results. I use clear packaging tape. You want a resist material that won't let the acid soak through. Be sure it's firmly applied, with no air bubbles underneath.

    Sandpaper above 600 grit is found at automotive parts stores. You'll find stuff ranging upwards to 2000+ grit.

    The ferric chloride solution works great on aluminum. Sink tubes are generally chrome plated brass. Fencing pole is usually galvanized steel. I've not done any experimenting on those materials, so I'm not sure how differently the acid will react to them. Chrome is fairly resistant to chemical attack, so I wouldn't be surprised if it doesn't etch well.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  4. #4

    Default

    @sks1138 yes I did see that thread in my research before trying it out. It is quite amazing. I actually also saw your thread already (I try and research as much as I can before posting). I had saved a picture of your saber as an example because of how nice the etching was. How did you cut the vinyl? Because your lines look really nice and straight. I know that Rogue9607 had used PNP blue transfer paper which he just printed his design on so thats why it was so straight (well, I think it was him. Might be confusing with someone else.
    What did you use to "brush off all of the build up"?
    Also, what technique/dremel tips did you use to polish it?

    @SilverSerpent you are absolutely right. I just used masking tape because it was mentioned in the thread at one point. I did try after (twice) with packing tape.
    Thanks for the tip on the tip on the sandpaper!
    And yes, it did not etch well at all. I was just using what I had already to practice it (before getting the real thing).

    Here is my last attempt with packing tape, ferric chloride...
    IMG_3730.jpg

  5. #5

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    Looks like you have some sharp, clean lines there. Decent detail. It's not very deep, but that can be improved with a stronger acid solution, or leaving the piece in the acid for a longer period of time. If you only want a shallow etch, then you've got a good process going there.

    As for cutting vinyl, some people use one of those craft machines like a Cricut or similar device. I personally just use X-Acto knives and a steady hand. Just be sure all the cut edges of your stencil are firmly sealed against the metal, and you should get crisp lines.

    The PNP toner method is nice for getting fine detail if your hands aren't up to the task.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  6. #6

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by nickpro View Post
    @sks1138 yes I did see that thread in my research before trying it out. It is quite amazing. I actually also saw your thread already (I try and research as much as I can before posting). I had saved a picture of your saber as an example because of how nice the etching was. How did you cut the vinyl? Because your lines look really nice and straight. I know that Rogue9607 had used PNP blue transfer paper which he just printed his design on so thats why it was so straight (well, I think it was him. Might be confusing with someone else.
    What did you use to "brush off all of the build up"?
    Also, what technique/dremel tips did you use to polish it?
    IMG_3730.jpg
    Good to see someone doing research first. I think I've read most of this forum in my quest for answers and have found every one.

    Anyway. I work at a printing company so I have access to vinyl cutters. Though I went about etching my shroud the wrong way. I cut the shroud piece out first, then applied the vinyl. I had ten templates cut out just in case I didn't get the vinyl on right. Probably should of etched first then cut around it. I guess either way a steady hand is needed.

    I just used an old toothbrush and some water to brush away the eaten metal. Then I washed the piece off with soap and water.

    For the polishing I just used the polishing wheels that came with my dremel and the polishing compound. I didn't go too crazy with the different grits of sandpaper since I didn't want a mirror finish. I got a little bit of a shine on the bare metal and the inner parts got a little bit of the wheel too leaving the inner edges darker for some contrast.

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