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Thread: Petit Crouton V3 switch wiring and start up issues

  1. #1

    Default Petit Crouton V3 switch wiring and start up issues

    Alright Ladies and Gentlemen you guessed it. First Saber. But before you roll your eyes and say here we go, I just want you to know I have read through the forums for weeks and cannot figure this out. I've done dozens of tests with the switches and PC but I still cant get it to start up right.

    Here is the gear I am using:

    PC V3
    2 AA 3.6v Li-ion batteries
    2w 28mm bass speaker
    deep red rebel LED
    16mm latching switch with red LED
    16mm momentary switch with blue LED


    So the speaker, LED, and sound effects all work when I put the batteries in and the normal start sounds play followed by the soft hum. However, when I tried wiring in the switches and powering them up the saber would beep like it had a heart beat or would sporadically start up and turn off. The LED and speaker wouldn't be in sink either. And then there's this weird animal sound. When I press the swtiches the weird things I said before would happen and Im just frustated.

    I think my issues lie in how I am wiring the switches. I have no idea how to wire them. Every diagram I've found I have tried and it hasn't worked. Can someone please point out the obvious thing I've been doing wrong and explain how to wire the switches correctly?

  2. #2

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    First off, Welcome to the Forums.

    What I (we) would need to see is several good high quality pictures that show how you currently have things wired. Offhand I would guess that you may not have them configured correctly in the config file based on what you have said so far. Here are the pics I would need to see - wiring in the switch area, wiring of each of the switches in question, I'll need to know which type of switch is being used for what (I can guess, but I want to hear you confirm it).

    Once you have posted these things, we can go from there.
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
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    2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law

    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

  3. #3

  4. #4

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    IMG_0315.jpg
    The first image is the momentary swtch, the second image is the latching switch, the third is the bottom of my PC where I had to solder the red wires for the switches because I suck at soldering, the fourth is the tyoe of battery im using, the fifth is my LED
    Attached Images Attached Images

  5. #5

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    The sixth one has the latching switch on the bottom and the momentary switch on the top. The attached image is obviously the top of my PC

  6. #6

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    Waaaay too much exposed wiring. The ones on the switch terminals don't look they have solder on them at all, and they should have heatshrink over the terminals coming off the switch. The underside of your board cannot be used for your switches. They have to be soldered to the top of the board.

    You could have a short coming from anywhere, really. I hate to be the bearer of bad news but you need to strip that board and start over. I would suggest practicing soldering before you go to try to tackle the card again.

  7. #7

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    Definitely need to trim back the exposed wiring on those switches. I understand that's just a test setup, but you'll get some ugly short circuits doing it that way.

    Your switches are set up in the Normally Closed (NC) setup. Try attaching the second wire to the Normally Open (NO) post on both of your switches. That should give you the correct operation. Be sure the latching switch red wire is connected to Act1 on the board, and the momentary is connected to Act2. Also verify that the SD card setting has you using a (NO) switch. That's the default setting, so it should be fine unless you or someone else changed it.

    The 3.6v batteries will *work*, but they generally are designed for a lower current draw than what our high-powered LEDs require. I would recharge them fully after you've finished rewiring the switches, and see if that helps. I would also look to replace them with a set of 3.7v li-ion batteries. The voltage difference isn't the issue, but the discharge rate that they will provide. The 3.7v batteries work better in sabers.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ty_Bomber View Post
    The underside of your board cannot be used for your switches. They have to be soldered to the top of the board.
    This is not true. You can use the pads at the bottom for the switches, the trick is to make sure you have the right pads for the correct switch. I don't see the GND being used.

    With that said, I agree with the others about the wiring, and SS's explanation of the battery.
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
    1. Forum Guidelines
    2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law

    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

  9. #9

    Default

    The GND is connected on the top side of the board. The red wires are connected from the bottom.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  10. #10

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Silver Serpent View Post
    The GND is connected on the top side of the board. The red wires are connected from the bottom.
    Ok, I missed that picture.
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
    1. Forum Guidelines
    2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law

    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

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