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Thread: Converting Stunt Saber to Sound

  1. #1

    Default Converting Stunt Saber to Sound

    Hello and greetings fellow saber enthusiasts. I have a stunt saber I bought elsewhere that I am wanting to give some sound treatment. I think there is just a hair over 1" ID to work with. I pulled out all the electronics and the guys work left a little to be desired, ie: electrical tape instead of heat shrink, not clear which wires are +/-. Anyway, I am wanting to gut the saber and install an NB soundboard, new LED and battery pack. I just wanted to make sure I am on the right track as far as parts go and not missing anything. I have built one stunt saber before and I can solder okay, but this would be my first time working with a soundboard.

    Parts List
    NB Sound Module V2
    SPST Momentary Switch w/Black Button
    2W 20mm speaker (I would have liked a premium 28mm speaker but not sure it would fit)
    2AA Battery Holder (I didn't see dimensions on this, would it fit inside a 1" ID hilt?)
    Dummy Cell (already have an extra Li-Ion battery)
    Luxeon Rebel Star White LED
    Luxeon Rebel Lens Holder
    Collimater Lens 8.7 Viewing Angle
    Star Thermal Tape Pad
    1ohm, ?W resistor


    I had read I could make a heatsink using a copper fitting cap and that is what a lot of people use on PVC builds. Would that be sufficient for this sort of build?
    In the PDF about the NB board it mentioned 28 AWG wire. I have 24 and 26 so should I get 28 or would one of those be sufficient?
    I read one 14500 Li-Ion battery is enough to power the NB board and no buckpuck is necessary, but is it sufficient for a white LED since they are supposed to be run at 1000 mA?


    I'm looking forward to any suggestions or input you might have on this.
    Last edited by Molina00; 07-16-2014 at 12:42 PM.

  2. #2
    Jedi Padawan Starwinder's Avatar
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    Default

    First of all, welcome to the forums!

    You should be fine with 24/26 AWG wire. I think 24 gauge is the one most normally stocked in the store.

    Definitely just use one 14500 Li-Ion battery as the board only needs 3.4v-5.5v to operate. You can't use a buckpuck due to the voltage required but you won't need one anyway. Just be sure to put the appropriate resistor in line with the positive of the LED. OR you can go without a resistor by changing the drive configurations on the SD card. Page 21 of the manual shows you how to calculate it out.
    --------------------------Cadence--------------------------

  3. #3

    Default

    Thank you for the information, much appreciated.

    Quote Originally Posted by Starwinder View Post
    Just be sure to put the appropriate resistor in line with the positive of the LED.
    Using a resistor calculator I came up with the 1ohm 2W resistor. Using manual calculation a 1ohm 4W resistor. I will readily acknowledge I could have messed something up because I have never dealt with resistors before.
    Last edited by Molina00; 07-16-2014 at 11:55 AM.

  4. #4

    Default

    Either one is fine. Wattage rating is a minimum. You can always use a higher wattage resistor, but don't go overboard as the higher wattage resistors take up a lot more precious room in your hilt.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  5. #5

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Silver Serpent View Post
    Either one is fine. Wattage rating is a minimum. You can always use a higher wattage resistor, but don't go overboard as the higher wattage resistors take up a lot more precious room in your hilt.
    Thanks. Is there a big difference in size from the 1ohm 2w and 5w resistors in the store?
    I don't think space will be a problem. It is about an 11" - 12" hilt and the switch goes in the pommel. The only extra thing I will be adding that it doesn't have now is the soundboard.

  6. #6

    Default

    The 5 Watters can be a bit chunky.
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
    1. Forum Guidelines
    2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law

    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

  7. #7

    Default

    For a sound try one of these oval speakers made for model trains. They come in 8 ohm 1 or 2 watts .
    Do a search for "model train sound systems" to find a supplier. They are under an inch wide and will fit your hilt nicely.
    2040box.gif
    Don
    Sith Happens

  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by Darth Obi Don View Post
    For a sound try one of these oval speakers made for model trains. They come in 8 ohm 1 or 2 watts .
    Do a search for "model train sound systems" to find a supplier. They are under an inch wide and will fit your hilt nicely.
    2040box.gif
    Don
    Thanks for the suggestion. I will look into it.

    Can anyone tell me if a copper cap would work for a heatsink for this?
    I found information on how to do it but I'm not sure if it is good for anything other than PVC builds.
    Last edited by Molina00; 07-17-2014 at 06:06 AM.

  9. #9

    Default

    Since you are using a single die. It should work well enough for your purposes.
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
    1. Forum Guidelines
    2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law

    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

  10. #10

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Forgetful Jedi Knight View Post
    Since you are using a single die. It should work well enough for your purposes.
    Thanks again.

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