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Thread: First time build questions regarding the LED driver and illuminating switches.

  1. #1

    Default First time build questions regarding the LED driver and illuminating switches.

    I've been looking for hours at thread after thread so if I missed my answers elsewhere I apologise.




    1: Basically, what I'd like to achieve is a single LED stunt blade with a shimmer effect and illuminated latching switch. Now I could be completely wrong here as this is all very new to me but it seems I would need to use this: Constant current LED driver, is this correct?


    2: I was also planning on using an amber LED. Now, the amber needs to be run at 700mA but the lowest output for the driver being sold here outputs at 1000mA, does this mean I would need to choose a different colour or is that not how it works?


    3: This is the hilt I have designed so far:



    Would a latching switch such as the 16mm Anti Vandal Latching Red Ring Switch fit with the Activation box style 9 where I have it placed on the hilt, or would I need to add something like Activation box style 4 for it to fit? Unfortunately it seems all of the 12mm switches are momentary switches.




    I have more questions regarding how to properly connect the driver to the switch/battery pack and even what battery pack to use but I'll leave it at this for now before I get ahead of myself too much.
    Thanks for any help and apologies again if I'm re-asking previously asked and answered posts.

    *Edit: I just realized this probably should have been posted in wiring.. oops :/
    Last edited by San Tala; 07-15-2014 at 04:32 PM.

  2. #2

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    1. Stunts by definition don't have any lighting effects other than a bright light. While you *could* use that, for $5.00 more you could get a NB sound card and have sound and a couple of more effects. And with the use of the proper resistor, you could run your Amber properly.

    2.You could use a different color (blue or green) with the driver you listed. That driver won't go low enough to run Reds or Ambers

    3. The latching switches are being phased out completely, as the sound cards all use momentary switches. Again, if you use a NB, it works fine with a momentary switch. If you want to use a momentary switch as a latching switch, you would need to incorporate a Pololu board http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Mo...-20V-P929.aspx.

    I think that maybe rethinking what you want to put into your saber may be in order, as for maybe a few dollars more, you may get something "better" than what you were anticipating.
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
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    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

  3. #3

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    Yeah good points. The only thing being I have never worked with nor soldered electronics before so I'm not sure how successfully I'd be able to install a NB sound card and speaker. I'll watch and read a few tutorials and maybe rethink things. For the sake of only 5 dollars more and with all the extras it brings it's probably worth the time to learn how to do it. It's rather daunting though. Especially when Makoto's are so cheap :P

    Any ideas if the momentary switch and battery pack, NB, speaker etc.. would all fit in that hilt? From pommel to the base of the blade holder it's running about 10 inches.
    Last edited by San Tala; 07-15-2014 at 05:37 PM.

  4. #4

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    What are you using for the bottom section (between the pommel and ribbed section)? You could post a cut away fire of the saber, it would help. You may need to add an inch at the worst. And you would have to solder either way, it's practically a required talent for this hobby.
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
    1. Forum Guidelines
    2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law

    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

  5. #5

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    It's just an extension piece and a couple of adapters. Doesn't give me a ton of room to get the power button hole drilled.




    Ha, yeah I've resigned myself to doing at least some soldering. Hooking up an LED seems a bit simpler than a sound card, speaker, button combo though.

  6. #6

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    Well, I would ditch the 2 small extensions and go with a 6" extension. This way you can put in a Box 9 and fit in this: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MH...kers-P892.aspx which will hold your card, speaker and battery very nicely.

    I'd start practicing your soldering beforehand, this way you have some skill when you actually work on your saber.
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
    1. Forum Guidelines
    2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law

    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

  7. #7

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    Drat, I liked that little bronze detail in the handle haha. Thanks a ton for your advice, you've been supremely helpful and informative!

  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by San Tala View Post
    Drat, I liked that little bronze detail in the handle haha. Thanks a ton for your advice, you've been supremely helpful and informative!
    Use a gold trim ring between the extension and the pommel You can search my Illustrious saber to get an idea of what it would look like.
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
    1. Forum Guidelines
    2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law

    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by Forgetful Jedi Knight View Post
    Use a gold trim ring between the extension and the pommel You can search my Illustrious saber to get an idea of what it would look like.
    Nice build! I'll have a look around, maybe mess with my design a bit more and see if I can improve it some, now that I know how much space I'll need internally.

  10. #10

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    I've updated my design and added a bit more space.




    I was thinking of maybe using a blade holder with a blade plug in it rather than a traditional pommel. Would I come up on and unforeseen problems doing this or should I be ok? This design should have enough room for the MHS speaker mount V6 and a momentary switch along with the wiring right?
    Last edited by San Tala; 07-21-2014 at 09:57 AM.

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