Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 12

Thread: Help! Can't get Nano Biscotte setup to work!

  1. #1

    Default Help! Can't get Nano Biscotte setup to work!

    After trying about every v2 wiring diagram I could find, I simply cannot get it to turn on, no light, sound, anything. The only change I notice is that the biscotte starts getting hot, and then I immediately disconnect the battery to prevent any damage.

    My parts are as follows.

    Panasonic Li-Ion 18650 3.7V 3400mAh from TCSS
    Recharge port from TCSS
    TCSS premium speaker
    12mm AV switch
    5w Cree led module
    Nano biscotte

    Thanks in advance!

    IMAG0255.jpgIMAG0256.jpg
    Last edited by Callas; 07-15-2014 at 03:27 PM. Reason: Clarification
    "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." - Edmund Burke

  2. #2

    Default

    Well, one thing is the soldering looks like it needs to be cleaned up, you could have a bridge between 2 pads. I also don't see a resistor on the main LED.
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
    1. Forum Guidelines
    2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law

    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

  3. #3

    Default

    There definitely aren't any bridged pads, and the led is rated for up to 4.5v without a resistor. So I didn't think it would be a problem.
    "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." - Edmund Burke

  4. #4

    Default

    Well, if the battery is fully charged, it should work. I would really redo that wiring, and instead of trying to get 2 wires onto the pad, make yourself a "y" out of a couple of wires and try that instead. Also, your wires are cut too long on the pads they should be maybe 1/8" long tops.
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
    1. Forum Guidelines
    2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law

    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

  5. #5
    Jedi Padawan
    Sith Adept
    Jedi Padawan
    Cire Yeldarb's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    United States
    Posts
    595

    Default

    Is the battery charged up all the way?

  6. #6

    Default

    The long wires are really just for test purposes at the moment. I won't be loading everything into my hilt until sometime next week when my chassis is finished being 3d printed. I will try the y-split in a bit.

    I'm assuming the battery at least has a bit of a charge since I just received it from TCSS yesterday, and it at lest has enough juice to make the board hot. The only option I have to recharge it is the recharge port I have wired into this setup. But it doesn't really seem to be working since the green light on the charger hasn't changed.
    "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." - Edmund Burke

  7. #7

    Default

    I would charge the battery directly wight he charger, that is if you didn't cut off the JST connectors already.
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
    1. Forum Guidelines
    2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law

    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

  8. #8

    Default

    Unfortunately, I already cut off the connectors..

    Also, does anybody have any idea why the biscotte is getting really hot whenever I connect the battery?
    Last edited by Callas; 07-16-2014 at 05:04 AM.
    "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." - Edmund Burke

  9. #9

    Default

    Electronics getting hot is mostly always due to high currents flowing, in this case I guess somewhere where they are not supposed to. Looking at the soldering, I assume the thick red and blak wires are for Bat+ and GND. It could be an optical illusion but on the pic they look like touching each other. Did you check with a multimeter? Maybe even if they are cleanly separated, I would check the voltage difference between in on and off states. The voltage should be ~3.7V. This same voltage should be present on the LED+ when swicthed on (well, even if switched off I guess). Just some ideas to check, good luck!

  10. #10

    Default

    Unfortunately, I haven't even been able to get it ignite even once. And the black wire is going to the negative pad (not lux negative) since this is a v2 and doesn't have a GND pad.

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •