My first saber to build. Please check my parts list and build thoughts.

[Mephistopheles]

I want to build a LED lightsaber with sound. I checked forums and decided to use NBv2 soundboard, because I wont be using advanced features of PC sound board. I used MHS builder to preview the hilt. I am still not sure where to put on/off switch though, so any help and suggestion would be appreciated.

saber1.jpg


It will be look like above when finished. I will paint the parts my self and possibly sand them to give a weared look. Then I will wrap the bottom section with black leather and put some o rings on the hilt to maintain grip. But I can't find a place to put my mom AV switch, because of the threads..

Here is my parts list:

-MPS Pommel style 3 v2
-MPS Insert style 1 (For the back of pommel)
-MPS Clip (for holding the insert of pommel)
-MHS ribbed extension v-grooved
-MHSV1 Blade Holder Style 16
-5" Double female threaded connector
-16mm Anti Vandal Short Momentary White Ring Switch (should i use 12mm one?)
-1-3/16" ID Black O-ring x10
-Covertec Clip (it comes with button so its a good deal for me)
-Acrylic Chassis Disc 2 hole to 3 hole adapter - S9 (Black) x2 (for stabilizing the battery pack and soundboard.)
-1.5" Aluminum 3/16" OD spacer (Black) x6 (to use with acrylic discs)
-4-40 Nylon Screw x4 (I think they might be useful for led star placing) (site run out adhesive thermal pads so I decided to use coolermaster thermal compound I have at home and use screw or adhasive)
-MHS "new style" Heat Sink V2
-Luxeon Rebel Star (Cyan) (I am not sure about color I want my blade bright as possible so I wanted white at first but some guys commented cyan looks brighter than white one, so I decided on cyan for now)
-Collimator Lens 8.7 deg viewing angle (this angle is the best from what I understand the written thread on forum)
-Luxeon Rebel Lens Holder
-LED "Corbin style" Show blade 3/4" OD (36 inches) (I want that core effect and I think it will go well with bright color blade like cyan or white)
-Nano Biscotte Sound Module V2
-MHS speaker and 2x AA battery holder (it is assembled thats good for a new guy like me and I decided to use 2w bass speaker cus I will use bass tone saber font)
-AA Dummy Cell x1 (will be used in 2xAA holder for keeping voltage at 3.7 volts)
-1ohm 2w resistor x3 (1 is for usage 2 is for any malfunctions)
-20mA DynaOhm™ Variable Resistor (to use with illuminated av switch)
-Bezel for illuminated switches (for estetic purposes)
-4 Wire quick connector x4 (I want my electronics to be as modular as possible so I will use this for battery connection, LED connection etc. 4 is enough I think)
-1/8" Adhesive lined heatshrink tubing x2
-1/16" Heatshrink tubing x2
-Dual 22 gauge wire (sold by the foot) x3
-Dual 24 gauge wire (sold by the foot) x1

I will buy the retention srew, tapping kit etc. from a DIY market.

I wanted to use TrustFire 2x 3.7v 1450 li-ion cells to provide power but I can't order it from tcss, because international shipping of li-ion cells are prohibited. So I will buy some 3.7v 14500 li-ion cells from my country and use them. I couldn't find TrustFire cells here; but i found "ORION" 14500 AA Li-ion 3.7v 1800mAh cells. Do you know this brand is it trustworthy to use in a saber? I will also buy Li-ion charger from my country too, but I think it wont be a problem.

So anything I missed and any suggestions? Thanks for your help and advices master sabersmiths

Updated.

[Silver Serpent]

You need the MPS Clip http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MPS-Clip-P72.aspx to hold the pommel insert in place.

Be sure you get "Thermal Adhesive" to attach your LED star to the heatsink. Thermal compound isn't the same thing. The thermal adhesive is usually a 2-part substance that you mix before applying. The holes in the heatsink aren't threaded for the nylon screws anymore, so the screws won't help you there.

You can't use the BuckPuck with a Nano Biscotte. The NB needs a single 3.7v li-ion, and will burn out if you give it over 5.5v. The Buckpuck needs over 5v to run. Use a single 14500 li-ion battery and a dummy cell in your battery holder, and the NB will run fine. You can run the Rebel Cyan directly off the NB and a single li-ion without using a resistor if you wish, or you can also add in a 1ohm 2 watt resistor. Either is fine.

The li-ion cells sound fine to me.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Welcome to the Forums!

I see SS looked over your parts list already. You don't HAVE to use an AV switch, you can use a small momentary switch and "hide" it amongst the grooves. Something like this could be good: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/SP...itch-P641.aspx OR http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Bl...itch-P558.aspx

[Mephistopheles]

Thanks for the corrections mate. I will use thermal adhesive. So I dont need buckpuck. I need a MPS clip. And I only need 1 li-ion cell. And optional 1 ohm 2 watt resistor. I will update parts list.

[Mephistopheles]

Welcome to the Forums!

I see SS looked over your parts list already. You don't HAVE to use an AV switch, you can use a small momentary switch and "hide" it amongst the grooves. Something like this could be good: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/SP...itch-P641.aspx OR http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Bl...itch-P558.aspx

Thanks for the welcoming and advice mate. I thought about using a basic tiny mom switch; yet I want a flashy switch. To use that switch I think I will need a resistor adn for the looks I will need a bezel. So I found DynaOhm variable 20mA resistor to use for the switch and added a bezel for illuminated switches to parts list.