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Thread: Help with Econo Board wiring check

  1. #1

    Default Help with Econo Board wiring check

    Ok, so I'm using this diagram:
    2010ModifiedNoVoltRegrev01-10-2011.jpg

    with Royal blue rebel star: 3V(forward) 1000mA forward current
    battery: 3.7v tcss pcp Li-ion
    LED resistor: 1ohm 2watt http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz?VS=3.7;VF=3.0;ID=1000

    2 questions:

    did I calculate the right resistor?

    Is there any advatange/disadvantage between the 3.7v and 7.4 battery setups for econo boards?
    "NO! This one goes here, that one goes there"-H.S.

    Saber building in a nut shell, as told by a smuggler

  2. #2

    Default

    Resistor is fine.

    A 7.4v setup will allow you to run multiple LED dice in series, but you will need to add in a 5v regulator to keep from blowing your board.

    The 3.7v setup will run single dice just fine, or multiple dice in parallel.

    For multi-die LEDs, you'll get a longer runtime by running them in series with a 7.4 pack vs. running them parallel with a 3.7v pack. For single die LEDs, there's no point in using a 7.4v pack.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  3. #3

    Default

    so 3.7 is cool if Im running a rebel and 4 accent LEDs (20 mA each)?
    "NO! This one goes here, that one goes there"-H.S.

    Saber building in a nut shell, as told by a smuggler

  4. #4

    Default

    Should be plenty.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  5. #5

    Default

    Thanks SS, You're the best!

    Just placed another good sized order in to TCSS. I've been building PVC sabers for so many local kids it's crazy, and now being able to add sound is going to make them even happier!

    A huge thanks to you and ForgetfulJedi and Tim. I just placed my first MHS order and am going to slowly start working on my first MHS build! Never thought I be making sabers, let alone work on a metal saber when I first found this site 4 years ago!

    I wouldn't be were I am without all your help!

    Thank You!
    "NO! This one goes here, that one goes there"-H.S.

    Saber building in a nut shell, as told by a smuggler

  6. #6

    Default

    So even though I'm using a TIP42G 5V pnp transistor, the source voltage to the LED is the 3.7 from the battery? or should it be 5v?
    "NO! This one goes here, that one goes there"-H.S.

    Saber building in a nut shell, as told by a smuggler

  7. #7

    Default

    There's a 5v regulator, which you'll need if your battery pack exceeds 5v. There's also a TIP42 pnp transistor, which switches power over to your LED. The two components look similar, but they're not the same thing.

    1. If you have a 3.7v battery pack, you'll calculate source voltage as 3.7v. You will not need a 5v regulator for this setup.
    2. If you have a 7.4v battery pack and you're running the LED AFTER the 5v regulator, then the source voltage is 5v.
    3. If you have a 7.4v battery pack and you're running the LED BEFORE the 5v regulator, then the source voltage is 7.4v.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  8. #8

    Default

    thanks for clearing that up SS, i misunderstood the pnp transistor.
    "NO! This one goes here, that one goes there"-H.S.

    Saber building in a nut shell, as told by a smuggler

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