AAAAAAHHHHH! THEY WORKED!!! *ahem* I mean...thanks. =)

**Kagetora** · 06-15-2014, 09:09 PM

Originally Posted by DarthMarr

very pertty! Looooooove the shroud work. where did you get the brass tube? ive looked everywher and couldnt find any with the specs. that tim gives the mhs sleeve material.

Thanks!

Online Metals has brass tube in .04" thickness (1.5" OD, 1.42" ID). It won't slip over MHS parts...you notice all of my parts are cut lengthwise. After you do that, it slips right over and you can drill and tap screw holes. I used #2 - 52 screws and a tap to attach it.

http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant...=84&top_cat=79

**Silver Serpent** · 06-16-2014, 07:54 AM

Congrats on completing your sabers! They look great.

It's a really wonderful feeling when you ignite a new saber for the first time. It never gets old, no matter how many you build.

**craig139** · 06-16-2014, 08:29 AM

Neat looking sabers!! As they are identical, would you be connecting them together for a dual saber? Or just using them two handed?

**Ty_Bomber** · 06-16-2014, 02:59 PM

Awesome sabers.

**Jay-gon Jinn** · 06-16-2014, 04:12 PM

Very nicely done, congratulations on taking your first steps into a larger world!

**Kagetora** · 06-16-2014, 07:23 PM

Originally Posted by craig139

Neat looking sabers!! As they are identical, would you be connecting them together for a dual saber? Or just using them two handed?

I have some parts coming to connect them. I had designed a quick-detach set of pommels (not a new idea by any means, obviously), and also saw the one's Tim makes, and then I decided not to go that route. I keep thinking that the shorter blades on the staff will make the individual sabers look goofy when detached, and the normally longer blades on the single sabers would make them grossly too long when connected together. I'd rather not carry around a golf-bag full of blades and swap them out all the time.

So, I just ordered a slotted double-male extension and two .75" regular extensions, one for each end of it. Tim filled me in on a tip about sanding down the female ends of the two .75" extensions a little bit at a time, then screwing things together to test, so that I can make the two hilts line up exactly. I'll do that, then do some brass work on the center extension to match everything, and I can have my pick...two individual sabers with the pommels on them now, or remove those and screw together the staff. Easy. And less expensive than custom-machined parts or the quick-disconnect that Tim sells.

**Kagetora** · 06-16-2014, 08:45 PM

Thanks for all the encouragement, everyone.

Now, I have a question for you. I still have to drill and tap the set screws for the blades. I think I have three options:

A: Right on the "front," above the activation switch, with a gold knurled knob/screw (blade length selector?)
B: Right on the "back," in the hollow the shroud makes, with a 1/4" allen-key set screw
C: UNDER the shroud on the back, with a hidden allen-key set screw. I would have to unscrew the blade holder slightly (1/8 turn or so), put the blade in and tighten down the screw, then screw the blade holder back in.

I'm torn. "A" seems more...traditional, somehow, but I am afraid it will ruin the way the hilts look. They are reasonably sleek now, with nothing really "sticking out." "B" solves that problem, sort of, but then its just a visible screw in the back. "C" seems like a good way to hide things, but I am afraid that will turn out to be too...fiddly. Possibly even annoying.

I'd love to hear opinions and suggestions!

**craig139** · 06-17-2014, 04:33 AM

Which pommel style is the quick disconnect?

**JakeSoft** · 06-17-2014, 05:08 AM

Originally Posted by craig139

Which pommel style is the quick disconnect?

There is no wrong answer; that's the beauty of saber building. I think you'll find option C impractical, but it has the advantage of allowing you to do the other options later if you don't like it. You could easily drill a non-hidden hole on the front or back of the blade holder after you've already drilled a hole hidden under the shroud.

**ghoti115** · 06-17-2014, 06:01 AM

Originally Posted by Kagetora

Now, I have a question for you. I still have to drill and tap the set screws for the blades. I think I have three options:

A: Right on the "front," above the activation switch, with a gold knurled knob/screw (blade length selector?)
B: Right on the "back," in the hollow the shroud makes, with a 1/4" allen-key set screw
C: UNDER the shroud on the back, with a hidden allen-key set screw. I would have to unscrew the blade holder slightly (1/8 turn or so), put the blade in and tighten down the screw, then screw the blade holder back in.

I'm torn. "A" seems more...traditional, somehow, but I am afraid it will ruin the way the hilts look. They are reasonably sleek now, with nothing really "sticking out." "B" solves that problem, sort of, but then its just a visible screw in the back. "C" seems like a good way to hide things, but I am afraid that will turn out to be too...fiddly. Possibly even annoying.

I'd love to hear opinions and suggestions!

I like the idea of a knob/screw set up as you described in A, agree that the placement of the screw may change the look you are trying to achieve. B seems like the better choice if you want to keep a sleek style to the hilt. C does look like it will take more effort than it is worth just to remove the blade. If you are limiting to just these three choices, I would say B seems to be the best.

I just want to put another idea into your head and ask why you aren't considering using a knob/screw for option B? If it's a matter of the placement, would you consider placing point B onto the shroud? It would let you have the the traditional look while also keeping the "front" looking sleek. Another idea may be to use a Covertec Button Thumbscrew there. Placing it over the shroud would also give you some color options. You could use sliver to match a majority of the hilt or black to the rings around your hilt.