It all depends on how you have things wired up.
It all depends on how you have things wired up.
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MSWITCH.jpg
That's how it is wired. The led lights up as long as i press the switch. So when i turn the lightsaber on the switch led only blinks. I want it to stay on while the saber is on and turn off when i turn saber off.
And what is the C-ring for?
The C-clip is to keep the pommel insert in place.
I'm not sure that your LED in the switch will act the way you want it to the way it's wired, but hey, that's why you experiment.
Last edited by Forgetful Jedi Knight; 07-15-2014 at 05:23 PM.
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All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
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2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law
"Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
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No it won't. I already said how it is working, but I don't know how to make it work like I want or even if it's possible. That's the problem...Originally Posted by Forgetful Jedi Knight
The C-clip is to keep the pommel insert in place.
I'm not sure that your LED in the switch will act the way you want it to the way it's wired, but hey, that's why you experiment.
Simplest solution is to wire the switch LED in parallel with the main blade LED. The Nano Biscotte doesn't have a programmable accent LED pad to do what you're describing. For that, you'd have to use a Petit Crouton or higher level board.
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http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!
SS is correct, that would be the way to do it with your setup.
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2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law
"Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com
You can't get what you want with it wired that way. Simply put, take the accent led (+) to the battery (+) (with all your other (+'s) and the accent LED (-) to the L- pad on the NB (in // with the main LED...make sure to resistor appropriately.). If you do this, the accent will light only when the saber blade is ignited and will be solidly lit). The extra connection between the NO pin and cmn on the second set of pins is unnecessary and indeed you are trying to run a latching component with a mom switch.
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Ok, i got my saber working and everything is fine. Except for the C-ring, that now i know what it's for but i can't manage to get it inside the pommel. Tried with a scissor like tool (don't know the exact name in english, sorry) but i just can't... It would be nice to see a video tutorial
I recommend a c-clip pliers. you squeeze the two ends of the c-clip together, slip in into the bottom of the hilt over the insert and then release the pressure.
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All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
1. Forum Guidelines
2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law
"Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com
That's what I was trying to do. if I squeeze the twobends together won't it break? Maybe I just need a little more pressure.
Also, I forgot to mention that ibthink they shipped the wrong led. I asked fo a cyan but it really looks like a green one...
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