First saber, hilt only [HELP!!]

[Darth Revan]

Hi, this is my first saber and i've already read a lot of threads here, but as i don't want to do anything wrong i want to asksome things. I just want the saber hilt for now, but i plan to add the blade later. So, i'm thinking if i should get the sound and ilumination now or when i get the blade. Also, i don't know if i have selected all the necessary parts, so please help me here.

1-Hilt style 2
2-machine guarded style hole 1.5" from end
3- MHSV1 blade holder style 18
4-MHS "new style" Heat sink V2
5-MPS Pommel style 3 v2
6-SPST latching guarded switch with silver button
7-MPS insert style 12

This is my chart right now. There's no electronic yet and i'm inclined to get a LED saber. So what basic parts is missing and what electronics parts should i get? Should i only get the electronics when i get the blade? I mean does the components depend of what blade i will get, right?

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Welcome to the Forums!

I deleted your other post, as it was a duplicate.

Now, onto your question... you could get the electronics now, OR you can wait, depending on your funds.

If you want to do a simpler saber with lights and sound, since you are new, I would suggest a Nano Biscotti sound board. All you would need then is to decide what color LED you would want for the blade, and you would need to get a battery, a recharge port (if you want one) a speaker and a MOMENTARY SWITCH. Those are important because that is what the NB sound card runs on, and you would need to get the Anti-Vandal style hole drilled into your hilt.

Also, you are missing the little C-clip to keep the pommel insert in place in you hardware list. You can look through the parts lists for people who have done NB sabers and use their lists as a guideline. WE can look that all over when you finish compile the list.

[Darth Revan]

Welcome to the Forums!

I deleted your other post, as it was a duplicate.

Now, onto your question... you could get the electronics now, OR you can wait, depending on your funds.

If you want to do a simpler saber with lights and sound, since you are new, I would suggest a Nano Biscotti sound board. All you would need then is to decide what color LED you would want for the blade, and you would need to get a battery, a recharge port (if you want one) a speaker and a MOMENTARY SWITCH. Those are important because that is what the NB sound card runs on, and you would need to get the Anti-Vandal style hole drilled into your hilt.

Also, you are missing the little C-clip to keep the pommel insert in place in you hardware list. You can look through the parts lists for people who have done NB sabers and use their lists as a guideline. WE can look that all over when you finish compile the list.

Thank, i was going to ask moderators to delete it =)

YEs i want it pretty simple, but with leds and sound (no blade yet). Following your tips my chart is now:

1-Hilt style 2
2-machine guarded style hole 1.5" from end
3- MHSV1 blade holder style 18
4-MHS "new style" Heat sink V2
5-MPS Pommel style 3 v2
6-SPST latching guarded switch with silver button
7-MPS insert style 12

8-MPS clip
9-Nano Biscotte Sound Module V2
10-MHS speaker and 4x AAA battery holder
11-SPST Momentary Guarded switch with black button
12-Rebel Star LED & MHS Heatsink Module

I think I'll use 4 AAA batteries so the speaker comes with the battery holder, and i don't need a recharge port. Why do i need a momentary switch? Should i delete the other switch from list? And why i need the Anti-Vandal hole?
Also, do i need a LED driver? Or any other piece to put it all together?

Thank you very much!

EDIT:

Ok, i think o got it, i removed some the old vody and got one with the AV hole, now the list is this one:

1-MHSV1 Blade holder style 18
2-MHS "new Style" heat sink v2
3-MPS pommel style 3 v2
4-SPST latching guarded switch with silver button (do i need this?)
5-MPS insert style 12
6-mps clip
7-nano biscotte sound module v2
8-MHS speaker and 4x AAA battery holder
9- rebel star LED & MHS heatsink module
10- hilt style 2 (with AV switch hole)

Still, need driver or resistor, right? Anything else to put it together?

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Anti Vandal switches are what are typically used in sabers these days. Plus most of them light up, people tend to like that. The NB needs a momentary switch (NOT A LATCHING SWITCH) to operate.

You also might be better off using the 2AA battery holder and then using a 14500 (AA sized battery) and a dummy cell. That will give you the proper voltage you need to successfully run the NB card. If you want a longer run time, you would try to find a place in Brazil that sells something similar to the 18650 Li-ion cell sold here in the store. If you use the pre-wired solution (MWS) that should minimize the amount of soldering you would need to do.

The NB works on a "direct drive" principle - the NB does not have a LED driver on it. Once you decide on switches and stuff, I'll look over your revised list.

[Darth Revan]

Anti Vandal switches are what are typically used in sabers these days. Plus most of them light up, people tend to like that. The NB needs a momentary switch (NOT A LATCHING SWITCH) to operate.

You also might be better off using the 2AA battery holder and then using a 14500 (AA sized battery) and a dummy cell. That will give you the proper voltage you need to successfully run the NB card. If you want a longer run time, you would try to find a place in Brazil that sells something similar to the 18650 Li-ion cell sold here in the store. If you use the pre-wired solution (MWS) that should minimize the amount of soldering you would need to do.

The NB works on a "direct drive" principle - the NB does not have a LED driver on it. Once you decide on switches and stuff, I'll look over your revised list.

Do I need two switches, one for LED and one for sound? I think I prefer the 4xaaa, using rechargeable batteries... what you think?
The soldering is not a problem. So I do need a LED driver...

Resuming, the circuit consist of batteries with speaker already attached, sound board, led and led drivers, right?

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

No, you do not need 2 switches. IF you use the NiMH batteries which are 1.2V each, you will be fine, though you will need to figure out how to secure your sound card within the hilt (using chassis parts). You also do not need a LED driver, the sound card turns the LED on and off, though it does not have a voltage regulator. You will just need a resistor depending on which color you decide to go with.

[Darth Revan]

So, the sound board also controls the leds. Why I would have problems ***uring batteries but not the lion? The color will be blue

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

There are postal regulations on Li-ion batteries. The Store does not ship them overseas.

You would need at least a 1.5 Ohm, 2W resistor based on your battery solution.

[Darth Revan]

That's not a problem, my shipping adress is in USA. Should i get a Panasonic Li-Ion 18650 3.7V 3400mAh PCB Protected Rechargeable Battery? I'll remove the 4xaaa with speaker and add the Li-Ion and a speaker. What does the sound card have the motion detector for?

Updated list:

1-MHSV1 Blade holder style 18
2-MHS "new Style" heat sink v2
3-MPS pommel style 3 v2
4-MPS insert style 12
5-mps clip
6-nano biscotte sound module v2
7- rebel star LED & MHS heatsink module
8- hilt style 2 (with AV switch hole)
9-MWS recharge por (the only one i found)
10-3.7V Li-Ion smart chager with 2.1mm plug
11-premium 28mm speaker
12-kill plug style 5

do i need something special (hole?) to the charging port?

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

You can use something like this: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Ac...le-9-P626.aspx
It would keep everything in one place and make it a bit easier for you to wire up. You would also need a kill key, and a battery charger. If you are going to use an 18650, I would recommend this: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MH...kers-P892.aspx which would keep everything held together.

In our hobby, most decent sound cards have a motion sensor of some type to allow for accurate swings, detecting clashes and such. What would be the fun of building a lightsaber if it couldn't sound (and look) as realistic as possible.