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Thread: Battery question for PC

  1. #1

    Default Battery question for PC

    In the description for the Petit Crouton it says:

    "Power supply : 5.5 to 11 V / 2.5A (with the High-power LED). 2 li-ion cells (18650 or 14500) batteries recommended."

    My question is this. 18650 is used in the name of both 3.7V and 7.4V batteries. With the 5.5 to 11 V (at the beginning of the power supply requirements stated for PC), does that mean a 7.4V battery is needed? It was just a tad confusing, and I wanted to make sure before I made a purchase.

  2. #2

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    For clarification, and to save from any scolding, the . after (with the High-power LED) threw me off and I wasn't sure if "2 li-ion" and so one were a part of the previous statement.

  3. #3

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    Quote Originally Posted by VibeKnight2012 View Post
    In the description for the Petit Crouton it says:

    "Power supply : 5.5 to 11 V / 2.5A (with the High-power LED). 2 li-ion cells (18650 or 14500) batteries recommended."

    My question is this. 18650 is used in the name of both 3.7V and 7.4V batteries. With the 5.5 to 11 V (at the beginning of the power supply requirements stated for PC), does that mean a 7.4V battery is needed? It was just a tad confusing, and I wanted to make sure before I made a purchase.
    For "normal" operations, you would need the 7.4V battery pack. 14500 and 18650 are sizes of a battery cell. One cell is 3.7V, 2 would be 7.4V. The 18650 7.4V pack is pretty big, you may want to go with a smaller 7.4V pack.
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    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
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  4. #4

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    Quote Originally Posted by Forgetful Jedi Knight View Post
    For "normal" operations, you would need the 7.4V battery pack. 14500 and 18650 are sizes of a battery cell. One cell is 3.7V, 2 would be 7.4V. The 18650 7.4V pack is pretty big, you may want to go with a smaller 7.4V pack.
    That being the case, a 7.4V 18500 pack would be a great compromise.


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  5. #5

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    The PC3.0 runs off from a single 3.7V 18650 as well (alas I do not know if that was true for the earlier versions...), provided the voltage regulator is bypassed by simply removing it and bridging it. If it makes sense to use the 7.4V or the 3.7V depends strongly on your setup i.e. the type and connection of LEDs you wanna use.
    I use currently the 3.7V supplying because I have an RGBW module from Cree and for all dice 3.7V is enough and I do not want to drive multiple of the same color. It has the positive side effect, that in most cases you do not need to take care about the resistors

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by Obi1 View Post
    The PC3.0 runs off from a single 3.7V 18650 as well (alas I do not know if that was true for the earlier versions...), provided the voltage regulator is bypassed by simply removing it and bridging it. If it makes sense to use the 7.4V or the 3.7V depends strongly on your setup i.e. the type and connection of LEDs you wanna use.
    I use currently the 3.7V supplying because I have an RGBW module from Cree and for all dice 3.7V is enough and I do not want to drive multiple of the same color. It has the positive side effect, that in most cases you do not need to take care about the resistors
    Not everyone knows how to or has the skill to "hack" the PC3.0 to use the 3.7V option. Just a reminder most new people here are "new" to the hobby as well.
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
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    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

  7. #7

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    True, but it opens up the way to some nice side effects. BTW, I also would not have been so bold to do it without the description in the user manual, and I was showering sweat by the time I cleanly removed the part...

  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by Obi1 View Post
    True, but it opens up the way to some nice side effects. BTW, I also would not have been so bold to do it without the description in the user manual, and I was showering sweat by the time I cleanly removed the part...
    Which is why for my saber I decided on a 7.4v solution, among other factors. Modding a board isn't an easy task, and prefer not to unless absolutely needed. Especially on a $130 board.

  9. #9

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    Plus, if you do decide to do the "hack", you do lose some sound capability.
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
    1. Forum Guidelines
    2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law

    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by Forgetful Jedi Knight View Post
    Plus, if you do decide to do the "hack", you do lose some sound capability.
    Huh, this notion/fear has been nagging at me for quite some time and now you helped me give it a name. I always wondered why my first custom saber with an NB had the same loadness as a Hasbro, and my saber with PC3.0 did not get louder. It stays to reason, that a 3.7V PWM signal will not have the same power as a 5V signal, so even if I cram in a 2W Speaker, possible only something slightly above 1W will come out.
    My only confort is, that all in all it's still quite loud how it is, it never fails to scare my wife if I ignite

    By the way, does someone know what kind of speaker a Hasbro FX has? I know that Ultimates have 0.25W, but the FX's are significantly louder.

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