Page 4 of 4 FirstFirst ... 2 3 4
Results 31 to 39 of 39

Thread: Smooth color mixing saber with NB v1.0

  1. #31

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Elmarco38 View Post
    Cool Idea on how to get color mixing with NB. I'm currently doing almost the same thing only my circuit incorperates a counter IC to turn on and off the individual dies on the fly with an RGrB tri cree. My design only requires one extra momentary switch to cycle through all the available colors. I'm using N-channel enhanced MOSFETS to handle the current and actual switching of the LEDs. I've already breadboarded the prototype and it works. I might have to incorperate your potentiometer design to achieve true color mixing. Really great work.
    Great to hear that people try such creative enhancement of the existing saber boards! Hope to see the outcome once finished, Keep up the good work! Cheers!

  2. #32

    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Location
    netherlands
    Posts
    5

    Default

    Just when i heard and wanted to mix colors using resistors and potentiometers this thread popped up on top

    I like to try this way of mixing with the trimmer potentiometers. I tried to understand the diagram and drew a draft version with 4.5v source. What happens when the mosfets are removed? Can someone look at the draft and help me on my way so that i know how to know: which resistors, mosfets, potentiometers i need (and where i should add the resistors?). I want to make sure that 3 leds combined can't go over 2A (when turning all tree potmeters max).
    Thanks in advance

    diagram v0.1.jpg

    EDIT: i decided not to mix colors
    Last edited by was; 11-27-2015 at 11:15 AM.

  3. #33

    Default

    First post. Hope I'm not breaking a resurrecting-old-threads rule. Just wanted to say thank you for this awesome creative idea. Using the diagram and parts listed in this thread, I soldered this up last night. It's a 1 inch board. Works great on the bench with battery as source. Next to test with Nano Biscotte v3. I am wondering if the flicker is going to come through.

    I had to slant stuff due to SMDs on premade breadboard without adapters. It works for version 1, plus it keeps the size down and less work adding additional components.
    Each color is slightly laid out differently as I modified as I went along, but essentially it's the diagram, which I made after seeing the best way. Other jumps and stuff could be done of course, this just worked for me with what I had. Took me about an hour total. Again, THANK you!
    CM-Diagram_1inch.jpgIMG_20160608_232926.jpgIMG_20160608_232943.jpgIMG_20160609_014132.jpgIMG_20160609_014501.jpg

  4. #34
    Jedi Padawan
    Sith Adept
    Jedi Padawan
    Cire Yeldarb's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    United States
    Posts
    595

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by NoSloppy View Post
    First post. Hope I'm not breaking a resurrecting-old-threads rule. Just wanted to say thank you for this awesome creative idea. Using the diagram and parts listed in this thread, I soldered this up last night. It's a 1 inch board. Works great on the bench with battery as source. Next to test with Nano Biscotte v3. I am wondering if the flicker is going to come through.

    I had to slant stuff due to SMDs on premade breadboard without adapters. It works for version 1, plus it keeps the size down and less work adding additional components.
    Each color is slightly laid out differently as I modified as I went along, but essentially it's the diagram, which I made after seeing the best way. Other jumps and stuff could be done of course, this just worked for me with what I had. Took me about an hour total. Again, THANK you!
    CM-Diagram_1inch.jpgIMG_20160608_232926.jpgIMG_20160608_232943.jpgIMG_20160609_014132.jpgIMG_20160609_014501.jpg
    Nice! what are you going to put it in?
    Last edited by Cire Yeldarb; 06-10-2016 at 12:34 PM.

  5. #35

    Default

    Saberforge Epoch dual tone hilt.

    **EDIT** maybe. so small inside.

    Hey, am I going to have an issue with this on the Nano Biscotte V3...the board has a 2A max, no? Running all 3 dice, yes, but since not all at full blast....ugh. Here goes the math again.
    Last edited by NoSloppy; 06-12-2016 at 08:16 PM.

  6. #36

    Default

    A common workaround for this problem is to install a Power Xtender in parallel to the LED transistor do double the power rating.
    If you look around here or at FX-Sabers you can find the instructions about how to wire the PEX for this application.

  7. #37

    Default

    It's working as is....I am not driving more than one LED 100% at a time so it seems to be happy without getting out the meter and math right now. Also I barely fit everything in the hilt as is. Had to change to a wired battery instead of a holder and some serious cram-fu of the wires (there's 8 coming off the LED alone with 3x .5 5W resistors and a ceramic 1.5...all in the choke...WITH the switch...all in a unibody hilt. UGH.
    Thanks for the reply.

  8. #38

    Default

    Sorry to resurrect this thread, but this is very close to what I want to do with my current build.
    Can this be done without a board? I'm trying to save money on my build by leaving out sound (I dislike the noise anyway. *ducks* Nobody lynch me please)
    What works in my head is to have the proper resistor on each positive led wire, then the potentiometer (I understand that wiring only one outer prong and the center prong of the potentiometer makes it a variable resistor), then splice all positive together and all negative together and connect them to the battery wires.
    Will this work, or am I making a huge rookie mistake?

  9. #39

    Default

    Technically the solution works, but has something to be taken into account.
    The majority of the potentiometers does not support currents up to 1A, which is pretty common with the LEDs we use today.
    A required workaround is to put the potentiometer in series to the proper resistor for each LED.
    This way the fixed resistor will take out the majority of the voltage drop (and obviously wattage/heat), but it remains an inefficient method.
    Honestly I warmly suggest to drop the idea and try to use this circuit.
    It's not that difficult all to build it, as you can see few posts up.

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •