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Thread: Smooth color mixing saber with NB v1.0

  1. #21

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    Hi,
    Glad I can help! Although I did not try it with a NB V2 yet, it should work just as well. But to be sure I need to look into the manual. I recall the V2 has some Kind of FOC, well, although you can skip it, it might Need some consideration if you wanna use it (i.e. if you have a white die, you might want to use that on clash, but I guess the TriCree is called Tri cause it has 3 dice...). And yes, I did use Cree for this build, but any RGB will work. If you use the standard 3.7V battery, you only Need to consider a resistance for the red not to overdrive it too much. 1 Ohm might be a bit too daring, 2 Ohms more than enough.
    It is also a good idea to design the hilt in a way that the potentiometers are accessible from the outside. That makes changing the colour much easier. With a PVC based saber hilt that should be not an issue,

    Have fun and don't forget to post the pics!

    As in the sommer I do not check Forums that often (being most of the time outside), please drop me a mail if I do not respond (kun.andras@yahoo.de)

  2. #22

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    I can confirm the circuit works fine with a NB v.2, so far I think I assembled 5 or 6 sabers with this solution.

    On my NB v.2 saber I actually used a 3-channels circuit to drive RGB dies, adding a third pair of trimmer/mosfet to the diagram.
    In theory all colors could be mixed with this solution, but one should try to avoid having all colors lit at their max not to overcome the maximum capacity of the NB (max 2A).
    Since I wanted FoC as well, I used a Cree XM-L Color LED.
    It has RGBW dies and basically same specs as the XP-E (actually the red can run at 1000mA like the XP-E2).

  3. #23

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    Great! The xml was exactly what I was looking for. Correct me if I'm wrong, but did you run NO resistors at all? Just the pot/fet for rgb? Optics? I'm assuming because of the footprint, you just used a single die based lens? Any shots of the 3 pot board? Sorry for all the questions, as I said before, not an electronics wizard. But I can read the heck out of an instructable to find out how to do it lol!

    Thanks for all the help guys! It really is appreciated.

  4. #24

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    Well, you have to use resistors on the LED as if you would be using them connected to the NB board directly.
    If my memory assist me, I used no resistor for Green, 0,5 Ohm for Blue, 2 Ohm for Red and probably 1 Ohm for the White since I didn't want it to wash out completely the blade color when lighting for FoC.
    For the lens, I used the same 8.7 degree lens sold in the store for the Rebels, it works just fine.
    Unfortunately I don't have any picture of the 3 channels board, but if you look at the picture I posted earlier it's just a little larger and fit the same spot on my chassis.

  5. #25

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    Got it, resistors still needed. Ohms law will take care of the values on that. Did you use inline resistors(spliced to the wire)? I was trying to fit everything on an etched board to fit in a chassis. Nice and clean like. I was thinking maybe smd's mounted on it. There's this little electronics shop here that will put a board together for me. I was thinking of using those but was worried about how much power they could take.

    Edit: Nevermind, just retread the entire post again. Helps if you don't keep skipping pg 2. �� i guess I should have asked if you used the direct drive or bypass method for the xml?

    Edit......again: I am a little confused. Maybe I am not understanding correctly. The xml red die with 3.7v/225 Vf @350ma gives me a 4.7Ohm 1W resistor. More than the 2Ohm you both recommend. I know I'm missing a part of the equation here. Any pointers in the right direction? I'd really like to actually understand why I need to use the parts I do, not just have you guys spoon feed me values. As always, thanks for your help and patience.

    Tex
    Last edited by TXATC; 08-12-2015 at 06:08 PM.

  6. #26

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    Well, 350mA is the standard current specified in the LED datasheet, while the max current for the XML is 1000mA for each color (also from the datasheet).
    Normally we apply Ohm's Law targeting the LED's max current in order to have the maximum light output as possible without pushing the LED too far.
    In short words we can say the more current you feed to the LED, the more light it will produce.

    I forgot to mention that you need to choose the proper wattage for the resistors, I normally use 2W resistors, good bargain between dimension and safety.
    If you go for SMD, just be sure to tell the shop guys to use 2W or higher resistors.

  7. #27

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    Ahh, I think I see now. Instead of the standard current, we push closer to max, ie 500-700ma? Is it safer to do a midrange or can I just push to the max? More current brighter blade. Thanks for the explanation!
    Last edited by TXATC; 08-13-2015 at 08:13 AM.

  8. #28

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    You could also just use the Prizm sound card (which was actually DESIGNED for color mixing) attach a RICE port, and accomplish the same thing, and get more fonts in the process. Once you have configured the colors you like, you can just save them, and you can then leave the tiny screw driver in the drawer.
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
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    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

  9. #29

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    Hey FJK,

    I had considered that, but if I was to do that for 4 lightsabers, the mrs. would go all Palpatine on me! Those boards are definitely nice and when my girls get old enough to build their own, I will steer them that way. This is more of a "can I do it?" And "the girls have another thing to fiddle with and adjust" thing. This feels like I'm able to learn more about the circuits and workings this way. Maybe it's just me. BTW I've seen some of your stuff, awesome!

    Tex

  10. #30

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    Cool Idea on how to get color mixing with NB. I'm currently doing almost the same thing only my circuit incorperates a counter IC to turn on and off the individual dies on the fly with an RGrB tri cree. My design only requires one extra momentary switch to cycle through all the available colors. I'm using N-channel enhanced MOSFETS to handle the current and actual switching of the LEDs. I've already breadboarded the prototype and it works. I might have to incorperate your potentiometer design to achieve true color mixing. Really great work.

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