Smooth color mixing saber with NB v1.0

[Obi1]

Good luck with the build! Based on your saber I've seen so far you are a formidable saber smith, but maybe one though: use an activation box (I guess you would anyway), because even with small potis and small transistors, this mixing module takes up quite a lot of space. I'm still waiting for an activation box, because I cannot cram-fu the mixing module in while the switches still poke halfway through the hilt.

I'm exited to see the result.

Ps.: Another idea: if you do the build with a PC3.0 and Bypass the VR (i.e. using a single 3.7V cell), you have in-built color mixing capability without resistors using the main and the 2 FoC channels, this can even work with RICE, I tried it just the other day.

[RobieRob]

Hey Ob1, I sent you a pm about part numbers, more than anything because we're not supposed to post outside websites here; any chance you could take a look and respond? Thanks.

[Obi1]

Hi RobieRob, sorry, I was not expecting any, so I did not look! I will correct my grave mistake I'll get back to you in the coming days. It will also give me a chance to look for alternative parts.

[Don Se Wion]

Hello Obi1,

As promised I have some updates
I used SMD components to bring your diagram to life and I can say I'm happy with the result.



As you can see I used only two channels to tune purple, but the board is small and fits very well on my 3D printed chassis.
It could be even smaller if printed more professionally with photo-etching and not the old style as I did.

I also thought about a possible solution to have 3 channels and solve the 2A limit.
Two channels can stay under the MosFet from the NB to avoid problems and the third can be connected with a Power Extender.
The MosFET from the NB and PEx should be exactly the same, so it should be possible to wire the gate of the PEx to the gate of the MosFET on the NB.
This way they should work in parallel and provide all the juice needed for 3 LEDs.

Perhaps it's something to be tested sometime in the future.

[Obi1]

Bongiorno Signore Don Se Wion!

I'm absolutely impressed. You made a much cleaner work of the intergration of MOSFET and pot than I did... Now it's time in turn for me to learn from a Master, what kind of pot's did you use, they look much smaller than the ones I used.

The violet color you mixed out looks fantastic, from the photo it looks just right for a Mace Windu style blade.

The idea with the 3rd PEX will work in my opinion. Probably the 2A limit might affect some LED's, the ones I use from Cree will never go beyond 2A even if t fully turn on all LED's, according to spec the max current is 700mA(R)+1A(B)+1A(G), totalling to 2.7A, but in reality you get the max intensity at a much lower current already (just experience). Knowing that PL builds a significant safety margin, I guess "standard" HP LED's can all be driven/mixed with NB...

[Don Se Wion]

Hi Obi1

I used this trimmer (url embedded ... it was far too long to be posted)
Even if they are SMD, it's easy enough to solder them if you use a small tip on you solder iron.

Next time I guess I'll try to use a 500KOhm to see if it can make any difference, just out of curiosity.

I'm happy that you like the shade of purple I got, actually my girlfriend says it is a bit too pinkish, but that's why I say that purple is absolutely subjective.
Next step is to show the saber to his owner and check if he likes the shade too, elsewhere I'll change it.
The saber is using a LedEngine RGBW because the order at TCSS was made about one and half year ago (it remained in the box for a looong time at owner's home), but I also like very much Cree XP-E leds, they are my first choice when I can.

[Obi1]

Gracia mille! I found the trimmers from a local source, they are already on the way!

[TXATC]

Any updates here?

[Obi1]

Hi TXATC,
In what sense ?

[TXATC]

Oh wow hey!

Great job here Obi1! I saw this thread and was transfixed by it. I JUST finished my first pvc saber for a friends daughter and wanted to integrate your schematic in my 2 daughters sabers. I was just wondering if you had done this with v2 yet?

That's what I'll be using, and the TriCrees. I'm no electronics wizard but I can read a schematic. Did you try the Crees at all? I'm just trying to figure out the best way to go about this. Everybody says to use individual resistors for the dice, but from what I understand, you just used the pots and gates as variable resistors right?

The idea of being able to change the colors infinitely on a whim with a screwdriver is quite alluring. I love the idea and have already started planning my next 4 builds around your design. I'm glad you responded. Wasn't sure anybody was watching this one anymore. Any insight would be much appreciated. Thanks for taking the time, and again, great job and thanks for the schematic!