Petit Crouton v3 with 10w led engine color mixing.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Yes, It could be done but you would likely need 2 of them. Using paper towel over the LED is a good idea.

[Silver Serpent]

I always put on a pair of sunglasses when I color-check my LEDs. I also try to avoid looking directly at the LED when I do it.

[RavenXp]

I have a set of laser safety specs that I got with my Arctic that I can use to protect my eyes.

[mikec]

And does anyone have a map of which pads correspond to which color on the LED?

Thank you in advance.

All the LEDEngin data sheets are at: http://www.ledengin.com/products/emitters#LZ4

These are not only good reading...there is a pinout of the MCPCB in each. For example, if you have an RGBA LEDEngin, it's on the second to last page http://www.ledengin.com/files/produc...LZ4-00MA00.pdf

I would strongly recommend using that rather than blindly (no pun intended) testing. The advice here to protect your eyes is very good.

However, in addition, LEDs are diodes and have polarity. At least with smaller ones, you can damage them if you run current through them backwards, i.e. connect your B+ to the cathode and provide a return path on the anode. There is a good chance that you will create this scenario if you are running through all the pads trying to figure out which does what. It may be fine but I wouldn't risk it with a $15+ LED.

[RavenXp]

All the LEDEngin data sheets are at: http://www.ledengin.com/products/emitters#LZ4

These are not only good reading...there is a pinout of the MCPCB in each. For example, if you have an RGBA LEDEngin, it's on the second to last page http://www.ledengin.com/files/produc...LZ4-00MA00.pdf

I would strongly recommend using that rather than blindly (no pun intended) testing. The advice here to protect your eyes is very good.

However, in addition, LEDs are diodes and have polarity. At least with smaller ones, you can damage them if you run current through them backwards, i.e. connect your B+ to the cathode and provide a return path on the anode. There is a good chance that you will create this scenario if you are running through all the pads trying to figure out which does what. It may be fine but I wouldn't risk it with a $15+ LED.

I did have a look at that info before I posted, only shows channels on that chart, not what color those channels are. And I'm not worried about getting the wrong polarity, since that's printed on the star board.

[RavenXp]

Wait, going over it again it says what color is what in a different chart halfway through. Die A is blue, B Is red, C is green, D is white/amber.

Thanks for making me take a second look, will post an image of the map out next chance I get then verify it when I get the LEDs.

[Obi1]

If you are unsure you can use the diode/continuity dial of your multimeter to test the color, it has been hinted at by Forgetful Jedi Knight (the Boss here I guess...?), but maybe overlooked. It's there to test connectivity/shorts/and diodes, and a LED is a diode. It drives through a very small current, so the LED's will barely lit up, just enough to recognise the colour. No chance of damaging by wrong polarity, although as pointed out by RavenXP, the polarity is printed on the PCB anyway.
I guess everyone having in mind to build a saber has a multimeter, I would not even touch that soldering iron without...
(before someone thinks I'm so smart, I did find it out the hard way after I nearly burnt out my eyes with the 2xAA test method... now I use the multimeter AND have protective Googles on my workbench