Tri Rebel Questions

[RobieRob]

Believe it or not, I did read that. The only diagram that I have for wiring a Nano Biscotte w/FoC is this:
NanoBiscottev20FoCDiagramSetup_zps3542eb22.jpg
hence the additional question. Thank you tremendously, again.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Believe it or not, I did read that. The only diagram that I have for wiring a Nano Biscotte w/FoC is this:
NanoBiscottev20FoCDiagramSetup_zps3542eb22.jpg
hence the additional question. Thank you tremendously, again.

Seeing it this way, I guess it could be done that way. It wouldn't be the way I would ideally wire those LEDs in parallel, but it should work. Your milage may vary.

[RobieRob]

Seeing it this way, I guess it could be done that way. It wouldn't be the way I would ideally wire those LEDs in parallel, but it should work. Your milage may vary.

Hey, you know more than me. I'm fine wiring in multiple resistors, and it's really not worth it to me to cheap out on $.66 and 5 minutes of my time to not add another. I think I have all my questions answered. I need to go over your math in the previous statement you made, but I think that clarified a lot. For one, I completely missed ^2 anything, so that's a big help. And then there's always my issue of getting series and parallel mixed up, but wiring the way I posted in the diagram with 2 resistors is sounds pretty solid to me.

Edit; The Luxeon specs state the red typical Vf is 2.1, where as 2.8 is the max Vf. Silver Serpent had stated he thought 2.8 was high, so he was right.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

If you go through the posts here, I know SS and I have both dished out the lectures about parallel and serial wiring several times. It's around here somewhere.

[Silver Serpent]

Go with two resistors. If you only use a single one like in the diagram, then you'd need to recalculate the resistor value based on the combined current going to both LEDs. Also, if one of the LED dice burns out, then the other one will blow immediately after. If you wire in two resistors in a standard parallel scheme, then the failure of a single LED die will not cause the immediate failure of the other.

[RobieRob]

Well, just placed my order. I was waiting for the Nano Biscotte to come back in stock......$754.24!!! A little more than I was thinking, but lets hope it makes for a good birthday, and a great summer!! I figured I might as well keep my updates in one thread.

Gosh I hope these things hold up to some adolescent dueling. I got the 1" thick blades, and the chassis parts for the battery and NB to go side by side.

Do you all try to get the sound board closer to the pommel or the blade for sound effects/clashes, etc?

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Well, just placed my order. I was waiting for the Nano Biscotte to come back in stock......$754.24!!! A little more than I was thinking, but lets hope it makes for a good birthday, and a great summer!! I figured I might as well keep my updates in one thread.

Gosh I hope these things hold up to some adolescent dueling. I got the 1" thick blades, and the chassis parts for the battery and NB to go side by side.

Do you all try to get the sound board closer to the pommel or the blade for sound effects/clashes, etc?

The boards typically work better the closer to the pommel they are. No one ever said this was a cheap hobby. How well they hold up to moderate dueling all depends on how well you construct them. I've sparred with the some of the top saber combat people in the hobby and my saber held up just fine.

[RobieRob]

The boards typically work better the closer to the pommel they are. No one ever said this was a cheap hobby. How well they hold up to moderate dueling all depends on how well you construct them. I've sparred with the some of the top saber combat people in the hobby and my saber held up just fine.

I thank you for your response. I will construct these as robust as possible, with the sound card being as close to the pommel as possible. I'm thinking probably right after the speaker. I even ordered the chassis inserts to hold the Nano Biscotte along with the battery so they're not just bouncing around. I'm a big fan of taking pictures of the process, so I'll post back here with progress. We'll see how it goes...thanks....

[RobieRob]

So, I have a question. Does anyone know what bins Tim gets? I mean, is there a difference in brightness from one bin to the next? I'm guessing there's a difference in the color or temperature. Anybody have any thoughts or knowledge?

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

I'm sure Tim tries to get the best and brightest possible, but like humans, LEDs are unique and an have small differences between them. With some manufacturers (like LEDEngin) there is no control AT ALL, you get what you get and that's it. That's one of the several reasons why they aren't used too much by the pros anymore.

Tim posts the lumen count next to the selections IIRC. With that said, I wouldn't get too hung up on the specs, I doubt your naked eye can tell the difference between say 161 lumens and 163 lumens. The only major thing that was noticed is that regular Blues had a greenish tint to them, that's why it was recommended to Tim to cary R/G/rB which is a truer blue.