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Thread: Quick Check on my Recharge port and accent LED diagram?

  1. #1

    Default Quick Check on my Recharge port and accent LED diagram?

    Hey Guys,

    So I've been honing my skills on 10 PVC sabers (not all are wired, i made a interchangeable system to change the electronics out between a few to save some dollars)

    Anyways, I'm happy with where my skills are now, and am planning my first real personal saber. This saber will be my fancy PVC stunt saber, and will have a 7.4v rechargeable battery, recharge port, 3 accent LEDs (20mA, T1s), latching switch, 1000mA BuckPuck, RB Rebelstar LED.

    3 questions:
    1)Is my recharge port wired right? (same on diagram 1 and 2)
    2)which accent LED setup is better and/or will work? (diagram 1 or 2?)
    3) how do I know which lead on the accent LED is positive (picture)

    (Red wire is positive, black is negative)

    IMG_8683.jpgScreen Shot 2014-04-06 at 4.04.51 PM.jpgScreen Shot 2014-04-06 at 4.06.42 PM.jpg
    "NO! This one goes here, that one goes there"-H.S.

    Saber building in a nut shell, as told by a smuggler

  2. #2

    Default

    1. We would need to see the actual port wiring - the idea seems ok, but it can be screwed up.
    2. #1 is better.
    3. The longer lead is typically the positive side.
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
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    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

  3. #3

    Default

    Thanks FJK!!!

    I don't have the actual recharge port yet, but will do a final check once I have it.
    "NO! This one goes here, that one goes there"-H.S.

    Saber building in a nut shell, as told by a smuggler

  4. #4

    Default

    On the recharge port, you generally have the red wires on a shared terminal, and the black wires split on the other two. That way the negative is broken by the kill switch.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  5. #5

    Default

    Thanks SS, I did have that backwards!
    "NO! This one goes here, that one goes there"-H.S.

    Saber building in a nut shell, as told by a smuggler

  6. #6

    Default

    So, I just tried wiring the accent LED's now that I know which led is + and can confirm that option 1 works great, and option 2 doesn't work at all (as expected)
    "NO! This one goes here, that one goes there"-H.S.

    Saber building in a nut shell, as told by a smuggler

  7. #7

    Default

    Yeah, option 2 would have you dividing the 20mA from the DynaOhm across three LEDs. Each would only be getting about 6.7mA, and are unlikely to light up.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

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