What color LED, what wattage resistor?Originally Posted by Ledwo
What color LED, what wattage resistor?
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"Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com
Green with a 4 or 5 watts resistor.
Clash sounds are triggered without a problem.
Power supply are 4 AAA Ni-MH batteries with a 1N400x diode (like it's described in the NB v2 manual).
Last edited by Ledwo; 05-16-2014 at 10:51 AM.
Well, using electrical tape isn't ideal, and taping the board upside down isn't good either. I believe your board is getting hot over time which would cause your issue. Also If you are using a 3.7V battery, your resistor is way too much. It should be .5 Ohm 1/2W.
Let me guess, you have your board taped to your battery? Do you have a chassis?
TCSS MODERATOR
All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
1. Forum Guidelines
2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law
"Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com
10364400_853850761297118_1743883221_o.jpg
The bug was gone when I unplugged the SD-card and plugged it back in (like last time when I changed the setting).. testing if it keeps working.
Last edited by Ledwo; 05-16-2014 at 11:00 AM.
The problem returned after running a few seconds without moving, I removed the tape but nothing changes.
Also tried another SD card with a backup of the factory settings without success.
Last edited by Ledwo; 05-16-2014 at 11:08 AM.
Try recharging your batteries. The boards do all kinds of odd things when the voltage gets low.
We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.
http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!
Agreed. With those batteries, you will need to charge them early and often.
TCSS MODERATOR
All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
1. Forum Guidelines
2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law
"Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com
Ok, saber is plugged in.
I decided to use eneloops because they keep their charge for a while but the fact that they only have 800mAh sucks (especially since the LED draws more than 1A).
I'm going to report back when the saber is fully charged.
Saber is fully charged and the problem seems gone.
Thanks for the quick help, wouldn't have guessed that low power can cause such problems.
Sorry to necropost, but this statement brought up a question for me, and I thought maybe it would use less of Tim's bandwidth to post
a reply instead of a new topic.
...Anyways, I currently have my NBv2 loosely covered in heat shrink, just wanting it to not short out on the inside of my hilt. So far it's
working ok, although the swing detection seems a little weak. If I remove the heat shrink, what is a better way of preventing
short circuits?
Do you hear that?
That is the sound of a thousand terrible things headed this way.
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