You can use chassis parts to mount the sound board, or go the simple route and use a plastic liner cut from a T-8 fluorescent bulb cover. cut it to length, and slide it into the hilt to line the I.D. of the hilt, preventing shorts.
You can use chassis parts to mount the sound board, or go the simple route and use a plastic liner cut from a T-8 fluorescent bulb cover. cut it to length, and slide it into the hilt to line the I.D. of the hilt, preventing shorts.
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After a lil research, the T8 tube looks like the simplest solution for me.
Do you hear that?
That is the sound of a thousand terrible things headed this way.
You can also mount the board with double stick foam tape, just make sure that whatever you mount it to will keep it from touching the sides of your hilt. I've had good luck with that.
Darth Fender
Sith Lord
You over estimate my FLOWERS!
The board should still be secured to something, even when using the T-8 cover, because if it's flopping around loose inside the hilt you'll have all kids of extra swings when you don't want them.
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Thanks again for the extra bits of info. I do have some double stick foam tape squares laying around
(originally purchased to hang those 22" x 34" $5 Trends posters that can be bought at W*M)
I just may try combining the tips from the last 2 posts by taping my sound board to the T8 tube.
Do you hear that?
That is the sound of a thousand terrible things headed this way.
When I build what I call my Padawan Series sabers, I use the T-8 cover to line the inside of the hilt tube and attach the sound boards to he 18650 battery with the foam mounting tape.
Got a question? Start Here. Have you tried the Thread Index yet? Most questions can be answered there.
Yup that's the way to do it.
Darth Fender
Sith Lord
You over estimate my FLOWERS!
Just as an aside, anytime an NB/CS/or Prizm gives you random swings, it's almost ALWAYS a battery/power issue. Either the LED is drawing too much (resistor needed), or you're using a poorly charged battery cell or the wrong type of batteries. Erv' recommends against Ni-MH batteries as they are not voltage stable (voltage ripple can cause false swings), and somewhere in the universe Bothans die anytime someone uses alkalines to power a soundboard. You should not have to adjust your swing sensitivity to nothing just to get it to go away. Also, having your saber (or even just your chassis during testing) sitting on a hard, flat surface will cause vibrations that the board confuses for swings. I don't know how many times people have said "I leave my saber sitting on the table/stand and it just starts swinging". Who turns a saber on just to let it sit on the table? No one, you're supposed to be swinging it around like a mad man. But it's supposed to be in your hands anyhow.
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Official BMF and LORD OF THE STRINGS
What about a PCv3? I'm having this issue now when the onboard driver current is set above 800ma. I'm also using a color extender, on which both channels can be at at least 1000ma (at the same time) with no issue. Regardless of what current the color extender channels are set to, the onboard driver can't go above about 800ma before the swings start. I'm using a 7.4v 18500 pack from the store with a fresh charge. Any ideas?
To FenderBender listen you should.
PCv3 can also do the random swing feat. So far I could trace it back to battery/power issue.
Mostly it comes if there is a short or low-ohmic path on the supply. Or, what I've seen, when the cell is getting depleted and battery is low, it also caused random swings.
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