A better way to do sleeves?

[Gungn1r]

Hey guys! I'm neck deep in my first saber and I've run into a bit of an issue. I'm trying to use some of the MHS sleeving to do a fore-end covering on my saber, but after six hours with a dremel, my results are less than stellar. Is there another way to go about manufacturing sleeving that can take my shoddy dremel skills out of the equation? I've mocked up my shroud in sketchup in the hopes that I could use a CNC machine, but I'm obviously way, way over my head there. Is there any other method that anyone has had success with or should I just purchase some MHS sleeving in bulk and go at it until I get a decent product?

Thanks!

[Silver Serpent]

Practice.

Also, get the flexible shaft attachment for the dremel. You get +50 to your Dremel-Fu score instantly.

I attach my printed template to my shrouds with a glue stick, and cut carefully just outside the lines, leaving a little extra. Then use hand files to bring the cuts back to the lines. You can always remove material, but you cannot add it back on.

Organic shapes and curves tend to be easier than straight lines, especially if you have shaky hands.

Get some PVC pipes from the plumbing section of your local hardware store, and practice on those. You can build shroud mockups for less than a dollar/foot while you're honing your dremel skills.

[Gungn1r]

I was afraid that was the answer, but your probably right. I just need to throw myself into it until I develop the full capabilities to make it look like I want it to. I've got the flex shaft attachment, but I still struggle with it.

You said you rough out the shape with the dremel and hone it in with a file. Do you have a good set of files you can recommend? I tried finishing my design out with the dremel and I think that's where I ran into some issues with run away lines and such.

Also, could you go into any detail about how you polish/finish the sleeve after you've got it in the shape you like?

Thanks again for all the help!

[Silver Serpent]

I've got a bench vise that I hold my saber parts with, and an old towel to prevent marks on the parts when I clamp down. My dremel is held up by a stand, so both hands are free for fine control of the the dremel's business end. If you're wrestling your parts and your dremel while you're trying to make cuts, you'll never get good clean lines. Be prepared to cut, stop, adjust the part in the vise, cut more, repeat.

I went to Lowe's and picked up a few standard sized files, plus a nifty set of needle files for detail work. A flat file, round file, and a half-round file are all good for general shaping. Then a decent set similar to this: http://www.lowes.com/pd_60199-86580-...7C1&facetInfo= for detailing work. The exact set is unimportant, so long as you get the sizes you need to work in the spaces of your saber parts. If you don't have any tight interior angles, you may be able to get by with the larger files. Check that you're getting files for metalwork. Woodworking files tend to have larger teeth that just chew up aluminum.

After I have my edges in the shape I like, I'll often clean up the sharp edges with a fine cut file, and then again with the sanding flapwheel attachment for my dremel. The sanding flapwheel can turn a hand-slicing nightmare of a shroud into a smooth, buttery experience.

If I want a polished finish on my aluminum parts, I start with sandpaper. Depending on how rough I've been in the crafting process, I'll usually start at 200-400 grit, and work upwards from there. For a mirror finish, I'll move up to 800 grit, then to 1200 and possibly 1500 grit, all wet sanded. The real magic happens when I break out my Mother's Magnesium and Aluminum Polish. A little dab of that with my buffing attachment, and I get a beautiful mirror shine on aluminum parts in seconds.

It's all about starting out with a rough design, and slowly refining it. The reinforced cutting wheels for your dremel are only the first step. I've easily spent 2-3 times as long working on a shroud as I have on the wiring for a single saber. Most of that time is just spent removing a few millimeters of metal here and there until I get the look I want. Practice and patience are going to be your best friends if you want a good shroud.

[Gungn1r]

Thank you so much for your in depth response. You've built me up at least enough to give it another go and see how it turns out. Part of the issue is that I was struggling with the limited selection of attachments I had for my dremel at the time, and part of it was eagerness. I'm going to buy a couple more reinforced cut-off wheels, some of the files you mentioned and really settle in and take my time with it. I really appreciate all the detail you've provided. I'll take another go and let you know how it turned out.

Last thing, I promise. Any advice for making tight radius'd 180 degree turns? I've got three on my saber that are only .25" across and I'd say that that was the part I struggled most with. How are you supposed to make a round hole with a dremel? Is it better to take a drill press to it instead?

[Silver Serpent]

That size? You're most likely going to drill a hole. Get a set punch to mark the location of your hole, drill it out with a smaller bit than the final diameter of your hole, and finish it up with a rounded needle file. Drill press if you have one, or drill bits with your dremel if you don't.

[amwolf]

What SS said, and adding the advice to let the tool do the work. Don't force it; there's no time limit or medal for speed cutting. Also, don't get frustrated (hard to do, right?!?). We've all really screwed up a shroud at one time or another; if it can't be salvaged or re-purposed then toss it in the recycle bin and start again tomorrow.

Dang, i type slow. Y'all had a whole conversation while I was writing.

[Gungn1r]

I'm not 100% sure what I ended up with is salvageable or not. What do you guys think?

IMG_20140325_131607.jpg
IMG_20140325_131616.jpg
IMG_20140325_131622.jpg

[Silver Serpent]

Definitely salvageable. The two side cuts look pretty good. A little cleanup, but nothing major.

You'll want to mark a couple straight lines on the back (top?) cutout. Either a sharpie and ruler, or some painter's tape. Then take a good-sized flat file (I'd use one of my 8" files) and slowly cut away the material until you have nice straight lines. Use long, smooth strokes to help get a straight line. Use a round file at the end to adjust the bottom rounded part.

You'll end up with a wider cutout on the back (top?) part than on the sides, but it'll still look good.

[amwolf]

You'll be surprised how many of those little dings on the surface near the cuts will sand out with some elbow grease and wet sanding with ever finer sandpapers (400/600/1000/1500). Easing those edges slightly will help as well and keep your fingers razor-cut free.