Light nunchaku wiring check

[othelarian]

Hi everybody,

I create a new thread here, because I want to be sure I'm not making a really bad wiring.

To explain a little bit the idea, the saber is divided in three technical parts (four but two similar) :
* the main hilt
* the aux hilt
* the EL manifolds (x2)

A little picture to illustrate :


The simpliest part is the EL manifolds, because is just two EL wires with a transparent 2.5mm sheath braided together and solder in jack plugs to connect them to the other parts to obtain a double helix from the aux hilt to the main hilt and around the blade.

The aux hilt integrate a simple EL wires driver with a battery and a led, and the female jack to plug the EL manifolds.

The main hilt is a little bit complex, with to latching switches, two recharge ports, the battery for the crystal chamber and the luxeon rebel star, the buckpuck, and female jack plugs for the EL manifolds.

The two hilts are fix on each ends of the blade with screws, so I can easily remove the aux hilt and the EL manifolds to have a simple saber, or just the EL manifolds if I don't want to use it, to have a illuminated staff.

My wiring schema :


There are plenty of wires in the main hilt, so if someone can check it, I'll be eternally grateful for the help.
I selected the dynaOhm for each accent led because in France the battery can be expansive, so I will use classic 3x 1.5 V non rechargeable cells to start, and when I'll stacked enough money, I'll switch for 3x 1.2 V rechargeable NiMH cells, and I don't want to change all the resistors between.

It's just a prototype, I don't know if I can really do this, but I hope.

[Sevinzol]

I'd skip the EL wire if I were you because EL wire needs AC not DC power so your adding a whole new level of complexity. Second you are adding a lot of weight to the end of the lexan tube. batteries are not light. you are going to have a lot of momentum when spinning that around I'd hate to see that auxillary hilt slip a set screw and fly off. [edited for spelling]

[othelarian]

Thanks for your post Sevinzol.
For the transformation from DC to AC current, the pea**** driver is here for that purpose, so all the components before is in DC, and after (in fact, only the EL wires) is powered by AC current. But you're right, it looks complex to manage correctly this part.
For the momentum effect, I tested after your post with special nunchuks taller than classic ones and with a piece of metal to have more weight on the end of the hilts, and I must say I was a little bit afraid before the test, but that doesn"t change a lot in fact, the nunchuk gain a little more speed, and need more practice but not for the weight, but because it's taller, and I can't do the same moves, I must make some little change.

For the possibility of the aux hilt to slip and fly off, you're right, bad for my hope, but it's true, one piece of metal try to fly during the test, so I must found another solution. I'm thinking about move the battery and the pea**** driver from the aux hilt to the main one, and keep only the LED and a connection to close the circuit, and make the aux hilt with PVC instead of metal. I can't make a test with PVC, I haven't got any tube actually, but I think it's what I must go through nom.

Again, thanks for your check, I never thought about the weight and the momentum. I'll make new shematics soon, with this new datas.