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Thread: Quad led heatsink needed

  1. #1

    Question Quad led heatsink needed

    Hello fellow MHS enthousiast
    Hello Tim

    As I am on my lightsaber building process I'm about to wire my CF7ds with a 4 dice led.
    I learnt from the more experienced that right now the new XP-E2 leds are the top choice for green AND red
    Off course I use MHS system and here is my request from my tests:

    The PCB used for theses led is this

    http://www.ledsupply.com/leds/cree-x...high-power-led

    So I tried it with the v4 led holder and despite the bigger size the MHS part is doing the job very well
    The copper heatsink dont need to be change in diameter, fits perfectly!




    The aluminium holder would need a very minor adjust in diameter to fits the optics provided (carclo).

    Then I would need to know if it could be possible to have heatsinks a bit differents from the V4, with very minor changes:

    1) the holes thru the copper, same diameter but not 6, just 4 holes fiting the quadpod support with the same diameter (the diameter of the MHS heatsinks are exactly the same than the quadcore but should be placed )
    These holes allow 2wire 24awg silicone to go thru 1 hole.

    2) a bit more longer copper heatsink on the thread: this is the zone the heat is sinking to the aluminium, I'm also going to use thermal paste in this area. Quadpod mean 3 dice working at the same time (+1 foc): more heat to sink

    For the aluminium part I will modify them myself in order to get the sabers prototype faster but the copper part is very more sensitive to my hpov: titanium dont sink heat that much I care about frying my system.


    I have found 2 quatro optics
    Kathod and carclo

    Kathod lens fits the leds but not the quadpod PCB

    the Carclo is shorter

    As said before silicon 24awg wires can go thru 1pcb holes, pcb hole are the same diameter than the copper's holes)

    The question I have to answer
    witch lens would work better? I have to finish the cram-fu to power it.

    Annnd the pics
    left Kathod, right Carclo



    sorry for the pics, as my camera is dead I shoot the photos with my phone witch allow me to post too..
    Last edited by IamHomostellaris; 09-16-2015 at 08:32 AM. Reason: clearer message
    Aka @Sapienstellaris on twitter
    Owner of several non-working hilt including larbel, Roman Empire.
    Owner of the Organophaos titanium TCSS MHS compatible hilts CF7 powered, quadpod XPE2 leds + Photon Blades
    Homo Sapiens Stellaris

  2. #2

    Default

    UPDATE
    housing home-customised


    The way it looks in an MHS part


    and the QUADPOD heatsink details


    I'm still surprised than there are not much 4 led sabers with CF7.

    Official answer for theses housing/heatsink would be very welcome!
    Last edited by IamHomostellaris; 09-14-2015 at 12:37 AM. Reason: add pics
    Aka @Sapienstellaris on twitter
    Owner of several non-working hilt including larbel, Roman Empire.
    Owner of the Organophaos titanium TCSS MHS compatible hilts CF7 powered, quadpod XPE2 leds + Photon Blades
    Homo Sapiens Stellaris

  3. #3

    Default

    There aren't many of them because they aren't really necessary. As I have said a million times before - "More is not always better". Properly run Tri-Crees are quite bright.
    Last edited by Forgetful Jedi Knight; 09-14-2015 at 06:12 AM.
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
    1. Forum Guidelines
    2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law

    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

  4. #4

    Default

    thanks for the answer Forgetful Jedi Knight!
    I still believe 4dice allow a better color mixing for composite colors like purple and/or better "light power".
    Finally I still have to compare my result to other saber to be sure as I know there is so many factors that the simple calculation "4 is better than 3" is too simplist.
    I also have buyed a luxmeter to improve my tests.

    At last the modified housing is VERY simple to do on a lathe from the original pieces...
    About the heatsink I have now my provider.
    Aka @Sapienstellaris on twitter
    Owner of several non-working hilt including larbel, Roman Empire.
    Owner of the Organophaos titanium TCSS MHS compatible hilts CF7 powered, quadpod XPE2 leds + Photon Blades
    Homo Sapiens Stellaris

  5. #5

    Default

    I have the same problem. Can you tell me where you got the heatsink? Maybe in a private message? I don't want to upset people, but TCSS doesn't sell the heatsink I'm looking for so it shouldn't matter.

  6. #6

    Default

    Could you send that to me as well. I have a strong possible future quad build in mind.

  7. #7

    Default

    PM sent to setelf3of5, Zephos you seems not able to receive PM...
    Aka @Sapienstellaris on twitter
    Owner of several non-working hilt including larbel, Roman Empire.
    Owner of the Organophaos titanium TCSS MHS compatible hilts CF7 powered, quadpod XPE2 leds + Photon Blades
    Homo Sapiens Stellaris

  8. #8

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Forgetful Jedi Knight View Post
    There aren't many of them because they aren't really necessary. As I have said a million times before - "More is not always better". Properly run Tri-Crees are quite bright.
    I think it's time to move on, the Quad LED set ups are the new Tri Cree of this time. I can't see how two dies off a Tri Cree will stand up to 12W+ power of the X4. I've seen some comparisons and the Quads are much brighter. I guess the only way to tell is if someone breaks out a Luminance or Brightness Meter!

  9. #9

    Default

    Building a saber is an exercise in compromises. You want the brightest of the bright? Take a look at Sunrider's 40W sabers. Or the guy on FX-Sabers who built the "Supernova" LED string blades.

    You want to be able to run your saber for more than 5-10 minutes on a single charge? Well, you'll have to drop down your brightness, or build a protosaber with an accessory battery pack.

    Are the quads brighter than the tris? Probably, assuming the optics are properly aligned. I figure you'll have 3 dice on, with one for FoC. A Tri-Cree will have 2 +1 FoC. You're looking at 50% higher current draw for your LEDs, which will result in significant losses in runtime. It's a tradeoff. You CAN have the brightest saber at the convention, but you'll be swapping battery packs far more frequently (you are building these with swappable packs, right?). Sadly, for a 50% higher current draw, you won't be getting 50% more light.

    Build with the quad if you like. There's nothing wrong with doing so. Just be aware of the downsides. You can't fit 4x 18650 cells into a hilt without some *creative* engineering solutions.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  10. #10

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jt_trouble View Post
    I think it's time to move on, the Quad LED set ups are the new Tri Cree of this time. I can't see how two dies off a Tri Cree will stand up to 12W+ power of the X4. I've seen some comparisons and the Quads are much brighter. I guess the only way to tell is if someone breaks out a Luminance or Brightness Meter!
    OK, in the picture below.. one is a 12W and the other is not. You tell me which is which, and I'll tell you what you are looking at.

    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
    1. Forum Guidelines
    2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law

    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

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