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Thread: First build for Guardian

  1. #11

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    if you decide not to put the switches on the pommels (I find it to be a rather odd place for the switch in most sabers) then you can opt for the module Tim offers in the store just for NBs. all you need is:
    http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MH...t-V6-P892.aspx
    http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/18...lder-P886.aspx

    after that, pick a speaker and a 18650 cell, and get a NB. you will need to source some tube guard for T8 lamps, it is extremely cheap.

    this setup including a NB will cost you about $100 after shipping.

  2. #12
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    Thank you. That is going to simplify my build and wires a tad. I'm going to need to buy a new heatsink. I got the blade holder already thinking I could get what I needed with a simple rebel star. I have the v2. I need the v3 for tri rebels. Yoshi-take was right . I completely forgot that the speaker was going to take up the pommel. I need to figure and easy way to get to the batteries unless I can macgyver a recharge port on the side.....not sure how that's going to work or if I'm just over thinking it. I'm convinced I going to go with the soft white led mentioned earlier, but Tim doesn't carry it, does he?
    Be forgiving of the past, hopeful of the future and mindful of the present.

  3. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by Guardianofwinds View Post
    Yoshi-take was right .
    I was? O.o

    You're going for a Nano Biscotte build, right? You're using a li-ion setup for it, I'm assuming. Why not use an activator box. It'll cost a bit more, but it'll make building and management much easier. It'll also allow you to very easily install a recharge port, especially use Activator Box 9 for example. And it won't detract from the overall design too much and lets you use an AV switch. No need to MacGuyver anything then. I do it all the time; it will all fit, including the speaker into the pommel (speaker mount 4 will slide right into the pommel without any issue, plus give you plenty of room between it and the box/recharge port for the Nano and battery).

  4. #14
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    Absolutely lov, love, love the idea. It says its meant to house the dpsd switch right? I'm looking for it and I can't find it. Do they they. Mean the anti vandal momentary switches? I'm sorry I'm such a newb. Now I was thinking number six. It would fit everything snug . Not sure how I'm going to puta recharge port in that, or do I make the box the recharge port. That would be wizard
    Be forgiving of the past, hopeful of the future and mindful of the present.

  5. #15

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    If you use Activator Box 9, then you can use any switch from this page here - http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/AV...Short-C81.aspx
    Pick a switch, any switch my friend, any of them will do. They're all momentary switches and are perfectly suitable for the NB, with or without the accent/indicator LED. They're also short so you can use the Activator Box 9 without problems.

    This is activator box 9 - http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Ac...le-9-P626.aspx
    The recharge port screws into the box in the back, the AV switch screws into the front. It all slides onto the hilt and is held in place by the center screw (any 4-40 screw will work, which you can find in the store). You should be sure to add the service to get the box mounting done - http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Bo...vice-P627.aspx

    This is all just my personal preferences. The boxes make installation easier and less time consuming. It also makes things a bit more sleek and easier to fit into your hilt.

  6. #16

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    Sorry to take so long getting back about the tri-rebel warm white (had 3 computers in the house all go down and had to fix them all..). What I did is run all 3 tri-rebel dice with the Warm white 2775K LED. It is quite doable with the single 18650 Lith-ion battery and a Nano-biscotti. I've done my last 3 builds using an NB and tri-rebel setup running all 3 LEDs and so far no problems. Wire them in parallel with resistors for each LED and you're good to go and will get a nice bright blade. Note: Remember that the NB can take about 2000mA worth of current going through it so each LED should be getting somewhere around 600-700mA current by using resistors ( I've gone past this limit by... a bit, in testing, but I would certainly understand if it voids any warranty on the board or cooks it. Incredibly tough and forgiving little piece of circuitry: Yay, Plector! Now if we could just get a new NB 2.0 to go with the new CF 7.0, PC 3.0 and CS 2.0... hint, hint)
    The suggestion of an activation box is definitely a good idea, it makes installation a lot easier. Looking forward to the final result.

  7. #17
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    Emitter, hilt , misch parts, act. Box 9 ordered
    Be forgiving of the past, hopeful of the future and mindful of the present.

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