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Thread: Fake Nano Biscotte FoC

  1. #1

    Default Fake Nano Biscotte FoC

    So my question is this: I know that the Nano Biscotte doesn't have Flash on Clash, but, if I were to have all 3 die of an RGB on, BUT one of their negatives (say, red) to the 3.3V LED pad, would that one remain on when the blade does the shimmer-on-clash function? Even if it were a much darker color than originally, I would prefer that to no other color. Thank you all so much!

  2. #2

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ryan Stormchaser View Post
    So my question is this: I know that the Nano Biscotte doesn't have Flash on Clash, but, if I were to have all 3 die of an RGB on, BUT one of their negatives (say, red) to the 3.3V LED pad, would that one remain on when the blade does the shimmer-on-clash function? Even if it were a much darker color than originally, I would prefer that to no other color. Thank you all so much!
    First of all, you wouldn't be connecting the negative to the 3.3V pad, it would have to be the positive wire. Second, that is only designed to power a small accent LED, not a main LED.

    As you pointed out. the NB was not designed to support FoC.
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  3. #3

    Default

    FJK is correct, the 3.3v pad is only designed to power a small accent LED.

    However, you might be able to use a Power Xtender to do what you're describing. Just run the 3.3v pad to the R pad on the PEX, and wire the PEX up as you normally would for FoC.

    I have no idea how this would end up looking in practice. It may or may not be particularly noticeable. You'll likely need to have a deeper shimmer effect before you see anything.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

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  4. #4

    Default

    Well, I don't think this solution will work.

    The 3.3V pad is not controlled by the main switch.
    The NB applies voltage to the pad as soon as the power is applied to the board.

    In other words, if you wire one of the LED dies to this pad, it will turn on when you remove the kill plug, or will stay lit forever if you are not using a kill plug.

    However, I think to remember reading something about a way to enable the FOC on NB on FX-Sabers forums.
    I believe the method is under tests now and probably the best solution is to wait for Erv to undisclode the information.

  5. #5

    Default

    Ahh, that would be an issue.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by Don Se Wion View Post
    Well, I don't think this solution will work.

    The 3.3V pad is not controlled by the main switch.
    The NB applies voltage to the pad as soon as the power is applied to the board.

    In other words, if you wire one of the LED dies to this pad, it will turn on when you remove the kill plug, or will stay lit forever if you are not using a kill plug.
    This is actually a problem I thought of early in the conception. I'm going to drill a hole in the saber to accommodate the now-useless latching switch it came with, wired solely to the accent LED. A little ghetto, but it's my first saber and I'll be proud of my innovation if it all works.

    As for the brightness, I think I'll be able to make the main LEDs turn off entirely, shouldn't I? It'd be less of a flash-on-clash and more of a dull-on-clash, but same as above. Thanks for all the input.

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