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Thread: Circuits and resistor calculations for Petite Crouton with Tri-Rebel Star RRW

  1. #11

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    Not exactly. While that is how you do it (more or less), the picture you have is for the old PC v 2. You would use the picture in the manual on page 28 on the version 3 manual. You would bridge those two SMD pads and then using the picture on Page 29 as a reference. where you see the resistor, that is where the Power Extender would go, with your resistor. You would only need the one that is marked FoC1. In the Version 3 manual, Erv' seems to reverse using the (+) and (-) (it use to be the other way in older versions) so, you just need to make sure that the wire (with the resistor) is soldered from the FoC Pad to the (-) of the White LED.
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  2. #12

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    Thanks once again for your patience. I admit, I'm getting confused.

    Quote Originally Posted by Forgetful Jedi Knight View Post
    You would use the picture in the manual on page 28 on the version 3 manual.
    You would bridge those two SMD pads
    OK, got it.

    Quote Originally Posted by Forgetful Jedi Knight View Post
    and then using the picture on Page 29 as a reference. where you see the resistor, that is where the Power Extender would go, with your resistor. You would only need the one that is marked FoC1. In the Version 3 manual, Erv' seems to reverse using the (+) and (-) (it use to be the other way in older versions) so, you just need to make sure that the wire (with the resistor) is soldered from the FoC Pad to the (-) of the White LED.
    If I put my only wire with a resistor between the (-) of the white LED and the FoC pad, doesn't that leave the wire from the (+) power supply pad to the (+) of the white LED with no resistor and no regulation of current? Isn't that trouble?

    I'm going to stick up a wiring diagram how I understand your instructions and maybe see where I'm going wrong ... sorry, bear with me ...

    Before I put my Power Xtender in, this is how I understand how my setup would work according to the manual if just using an external power resistor (which, as you said, would be bulky) ...


  3. #13

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    And this is how I understood what you said regarding use of the Power Xtender. Of course, the resistor is soldeed in between the two lugs marked (+) but that line has to connect the (-) of the white LED and the FoC pad on the board.



    No resistor in the wire from the main positive (+) to the (+) of the white LED?
    No connection from the Power Xtender (-) lugs to the board?
    No connection between the board and the "R" lug on the Power Xtender?

  4. #14

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    Correct.

    To answer your earlier question, normally I had always put it on the (+) wire myself.
    BUT since it is a circuit that is being created, the resistor limits with voltage/amperage through the circuit, SO as long as the resistor is somewhere within the circuit, you're good.
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    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
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  5. #15

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    Thank you ever so much. It just looked totally nuts to me so I'm very grateful for your input.

  6. #16

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rich330 View Post
    Thank you ever so much. It just looked totally nuts to me so I'm very grateful for your input.
    No problem. That is why I try to discourage complex first builds (not that your is), because it can get overwhelming, not to mention expensive.
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    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

  7. #17

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    I think I've got my wiring sorted now then.

    The idea is to use one AV momentary switch as the activation switch. It's blue ring will light up constantly as a power On LED when the kill key is pulled.
    The second AV momentary switch is my AUX switch. I will connect it's red ring as an accent LED to accent LED pad 1. (And programme it to flash).
    I've changed my battery solution for space purposes.

    So, what have I missed/got wrong?


  8. #18

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    Essentially, it is correct. Three minor changes I would make are:

    1. Run the switch GND wires straight from the lug to the pad, you may want to create a "Y" shaped wire to do that.
    2. Same critique for the LED (-) wires, run them both the the accent ground, you can use another "Y" shaped wire to do that.
    3. Run the GND wire from the RICE port directly to the Battery (-) on the recharge port.
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
    1. Forum Guidelines
    2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law

    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

  9. #19

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    I shall follow all those pieces of advice. Thanks again.

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