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Thread: Saber Build Problems

  1. #101

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    on your Diagram you got C1 wired in the 3.3v pad is that correct?

    K
    Quote Originally Posted by Forgetful Jedi Knight View Post
    Option 1 would work. #2 doesn't because the switch part doesn't get wired to the 3.3v pad.

  2. #102

  3. #103

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    Quote Originally Posted by Keivan View Post
    on your Diagram you got C1 wired in the 3.3v pad is that correct?

    K
    In that particular example, the switch is wired in a funky fashion, because the person who drew that diagram wanted the LED to act in a particular way. It's not how I would personally do it, but it is what it is, and example. Your option #2 would have been correct if you put the wire from the LED (+) to the 3.3v pad (instead of the accent led pad) and left the "switch wires" alone.
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
    1. Forum Guidelines
    2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law

    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

  4. #104

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    Like this??
    option_03.jpg
    Quote Originally Posted by Forgetful Jedi Knight View Post
    In that particular example, the switch is wired in a funky fashion, because the person who drew that diagram wanted the LED to act in a particular way. It's not how I would personally do it, but it is what it is, and example. Your option #2 would have been correct if you put the wire from the LED (+) to the 3.3v pad (instead of the accent led pad) and left the "switch wires" alone.

  5. #105

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    Quote Originally Posted by Keivan View Post
    Like this??
    option_03.jpg
    Yes, like that. Resistor as necessary. With this way, the LED in the switch comes on as soon as the kill key is pulled.
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
    1. Forum Guidelines
    2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law

    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

  6. #106

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    Hi All

    I just wanted to say My Saber is succefully finished and I like to thank all the people and the Admins that helped me and guided me thru this. thank you guys so much I couldn't have done it with out your help. and here is the little clip of the saber.
    you guys Rock.
    best
    Khttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9wyQ...ature=youtu.be



    Quote Originally Posted by Keivan View Post
    Hi Guys I build a saber first time and I got some issues when I try to turn on the saber. it used to work before but for some reason now it doesnt turn on and the circuit board tent to get real hot
    my solution is to un-solder everything and start from scratch but before I do that I wanted to see if any one have an idea or a better and less painful solution for my problem, to be specific when I connect the battery I hear a turn on sound but after that the switch dosnt light up nor turn on the saber and when I touch the circuit the area where the power wires are seem to get hot. which I think that is NOT good.
    any help is appreciated
    best
    K
    here is the diagram I used to wired everythingAttachment 9406
    Last edited by Keivan; 02-18-2015 at 11:45 AM.

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